French-German design duo Augustin Teboul, being Berlin fashion favourites, attracted no less than 500 visitors to their decadent West Berlin apartment show location. Ascending the vibrant flower bouquet covered marble staircases aptly foreshadowed what was waiting within: a Baudelaire poem (‘Les Fleurs du Mal’) inspired presentation, by set designer Zana Bosnjak, of models carefully poised on baroque furniture near to entangled by sculpted flowers arranged by Fleurops “Junge Wilde”. Pianist Julien Quentin set the tone to the surreal scene, which was closer to an interactive art installation than a fashion week show.
Though the collection was floral the design duo, by keeping it black, were able to avoid the S/S cliche of colorful and loud flower prints. There was an abundance of time-consuming, intricate beading (some beads were Swarovski elements) in the form of headpieces and on dresses, their signature crochet and three dimensional knits. Contrasts were a-plenty: bad-ass motorcycle jackets paired with feminine crochet leggings, a dress with a sleeveless leather top-half and flowing, chiffon bottom and an androgynous dinner jacket worn over bead covered bustiers.
Had the clothes not been so intricate, thought-out and utterly beautiful the show might have come across a bit over constructed, but as it were the combination of sculpted flowers, live classic piano music, macaroons in pretty pastels stacked up high and sculpture-like models all came together beautifully as a whole.
Text by Grashina Gabelmann