“LES MARINS” the revival of Jean Paul Gaultier’s ready-to-wear collection

Jean-Paul Gaultier may have retired from an active role in his maison in 2020, but he will always keep a watchful eye over his legacy. Since the standby of the last Pret a Portie collection in 2015, the house is finally returning with a new Ready to Wear collection. It will revive the myth of sailors and the marinière, which has always been part of Jean Paul Gaultier’s DNA, through a reinterpretation in 2021. With Bella Hadid as a mermaid, the aim is to evoke maritime feelings, misty sea air, mystical and fairytale expressions to reflect the sailor-like Gaultier character. The summer collection exudes the feeling of being liberated from all constraints and being able to break through any boundaries. Five designers who personify the values of freedom, acceptance, and unscrupulous creativity had the honor of participating in this rebirth. Nix Lecourt Mansion, Ottolinger, Palomo Spain, Alan Crocetti, and Marvin M’Toumo worked together as a collective to create a new reinterpretation of Gaultier culture.

An unambivalent homage to various communities that have accompanied the studio since its inception, the diverse interpretations of Gaultier’s genius range from bizarre zebra zigzags, comical bra-shaped jewelry to “shell and crustacean” accessories. Various variations of the designers’ marinière break any traditions and boundaries known until now. Sailor stripes have been distorted, transcended, discordant, and deformed. The highly topical 2021 theme of gender is a natural and strong focus of the collection. This is demonstrated by the atelier ignoring the normal times for ready-to-wear launches, releasing the collection in Pride month, and not following any gender classification in the online shop. Unashamedly transparent tops and trousers unbuttoned at the back of the buttocks worn by both men and women, which could be provocative and polarising for some. Jean-Paul Gaultier’s long-standing political commitment to feminism, anti-racism, LGBTQI+ rights, and mutual tolerance is brought to a climax in this nautical summer collection by throwing all boundaries overboard.

By bringing in activists such as Roxanne Maillet and Marie-Mam Sai Bellier, who wear a unisex t-shirt that reads “Jean-ne Paul-e Gaultier-e”, the collection draws attention to fashion but also to linguistic aspects of equality in society. In addition, legendary vintage pieces with a lot of Gaultier history become part of this collection, showing the atelier’s love for upcycling. How beautiful it would be if everyone could see this collection as a path to a future without gender boundaries and collective action by diverse communities? And is there a better way to kick off pride month. We think not! Welcome back Jean Paul and happy pride month.