All images courtesy G-Star.
It is often said that success comes at a price, and that price usually comes in the form of heightened expectations for subsequent projects. Human’s have a habit of perpetuating the impression that you’re only as good as your last success. Expectations of this calibre create a unique dimension of pressure, however, this is a charged atmosphere that the G-Star Raw design team revel in. Instead of being intimidated by the success of the brand’s credible design history, they stand on the shoulders of its heritage, overcoming the trap of falling into faddish design tendencies in the process. According to Head of Menswear Design, Leo Brancovich, his team’s process centres on establishing a garment’s innate functionality. Depending on how well this step is executed, in turn, determines whether a garment stands the test of time.
The brand’s DNA is perhaps most clearly explored in their ‘Exclusives by G-Star Raw’ collection. Having released the Pinnacle collection towards the tail end of 2020, they’ve begun 2021 with a similar streak of potency by releasing a new Spring collection under the ‘Exclusives’ line. Richly textured denim and natural fibres are here in abundance as to be expected, but what may come as an exciting surprise are the pieces embracing bright orange accents that interplay with transparent elements for a futuristic feel. Futureproofing the garments is also in-keeping with G-Star’s aim of creating pieces that express a narrative: there is a distinct past, present and far-flung future for each piece in the collection. To gain greater insight into the design process of the ‘Exclusives’ collection, we spoke to Brancovich about establishing a cohesive design language, enchanting consumers with creativity and how to create something of permanent value.
An overarching aim of this project was to create “timeless icons for both men and women”. In your opinion, what are the essential features of timeless design and is there a common theme in anything considered timeless?
Timelessness means ignoring the superficiality of fleeting fast fashion and following the deeper undercurrents of culture’s flow. It is also reflected in our choice of design ingredients, which are largely extracted from functional garments within our archive. Function provides truths in design that outlive simple decoration.
What does the notion of exclusivity mean to you?
In terms of what we have tried to achieve, it means a product that is unfettered by concerns of what the market requests, but obliged to express – to the maximum extent – what we stand for.
Do you have a favourite piece from the collection?
Yes, I would recommend the little orange Anorak. It’s a perfect encapsulation of the playful spirit of exploration and reinvention that breathes life into the Exclusives collection.
Function provides truths in design that outlive simple decoration.
How would you describe the ‘Exclusives by G-STAR Raw’ collection in three words?
Unique, bold and confident.
When designing pieces for the ‘Exclusives’ collection, was there a particular kind of person you envisaged in the pieces, or are you more focused on creating something with universal appeal?
We prefer that our customer should find the brand, rather designing for a target. As designers, we spend a lot of time in army surplus and thrift stores, rooting out vintage garments and equipment. We hope our consumer will experience the same curiosity, enchantment and joy through the discovery of our designs, that we feel when we unearth an intricate and rare garment in one of those dusty stores.
How important is a brand’s DNA and heritage in informing its future designs?
Ours is vital. We are obsessed with the design language of function. Our knowledge has been built over many years, and the specific parameters we respect are crucial to expressing that DNA. Our archive contains both our brand history and the history of 20th-century functional clothing. We use these as ingredients, together with our instincts as designers, to project a future path for the brand.
We are obsessed with the design language of function.
I’ve noted that some garments in the collection are constructed with recycled polyester. In a world where many will argue that we have enough clothes, particularly in light of the environmental damage done by the garment industry, what intentionality, be that social, political or environmental, does the ‘Exclusives’ collection look to assert?
We indeed do have enough clothes. I’d like that to be the narrative our industry followed. That the fashion business would move towards garments designed to last.
With the Exclusives collection, we have tackled the issue of longevity in two ways. The first is a focus on top-quality materials with elevated lifespans. The second is an emphasis on the longevity of appeal. G-Star has always ploughed its own furrow. A brand that looked inwards for inspiration and direction.
We’ve never been involved with fleeting fashions. Instead, we have created beautiful garments by deconstructing the language of function and presenting it as an exciting costume. Our essential approach has been to accentuate what is timeless and of permanent value.
As a designer working in a Post-postmodern era, how do you navigate the obligations towards both art and commerce when producing garments?
I find there’s very little navigation required. I design for a very tight set of criteria and parameters that happen to coincide with those of the company. That’s how I ended up at G-Star.
Explore the Spring ‘Exclusives’ collection by G-Star which is available for purchase here.