Berlin Fashion Week takes a hit with loss of the Berliner Salon

The Berliner Salon was supposed to provide a platform to showcase German designers and bring the fashion industry’s eye to Berlin, but after four years the dream is over. The group’s organiser, Marcus Kurz said in a statement yesterday the dates and format of Berlin Fashion Week didn’t allow the presentation to be internationally “competitive.”

Kurz’s reason makes sense. Fashion weeks around the world are fighting for more time, with New York, Paris, London and Milan steadily increasing the number of shows and days on their schedules, while newer additions to the international marathon like Copenhagen and Lagos have been establishing themselves as vital stops in the broader fashion week calendar. Although Berlin is a major European exporter of culture, trends and politics, the German capital has struggled to find its identity as a fashion hub.

Part of the city’s problem is that its designers leave when they get big enough. While GmbH, and Lutz Huelle have had memorable shows in Germany, the two labels have been open about their choices to move to Paris for better access to press and buyers. They aren’t alone. Dumitrascu, Ottolinger and Nhu Duong all chose to work in Berlin but show elsewhere. With the big names going abroad, press and buyers don’t make the trip to the German capital and without them brands with their sights on the international market are reluctant to stay.

The goal of the Berliner Salon was to counteract the exodus by presenting a well-curated show of German fashion talent; including runway shows and an actual salon where multiple labels are featured. While it succeeded at becoming one of Berlin Fashion Week’s most highly regarded events in conjunction with the Vogue Salon – and was especially celebrated for its ability to bring showcases from Berlin-based designers like, Nhu Duong or Odeeh, back to the city – it failed to capture international attention in the same way that events in Copenhagen or London do. But they aren’t the only fashion venture to have trouble growing a fashion platform in Berlin.

Zalando announced at the end of last year that its consumer-facing streetwear convention, Bread&&Butter would not be continuing after three years. According to Zalando co-founder David Schneider, the event – which drew in crowds of more than 35,000, as well as major brands like Nike, Puma as well as rising stars like O32c – had hit a “natural limit.”

Although the Vogue Salon will continue to bring in large names and focus on developing new talent, the loss of the Berlin Salon and Bread&&Butter leave Berlin’s fashion calendar wide open for a new concept.

In May, Reference Festival is slated to try its hand at brining a major fashion event to Berlin. Instead of a traditional fashion week, the 24-hour festival is billed as a platform for “creativity in the infinite present.” The mix of confirmed participants is interesting as it pairs industry heavy weights, like Gucci, with the newer faces of 032c and GMBH, as well as the former creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati who is outspoken about his disdain for the traditional luxury industry.

While we are sad to see the Salon go, ‘in with the new’ seems like Berlin’s best hope.