Between the supermodel pyrotechnics at Versace and the comic-book extravaganza of Prada, it’s safe to say Milan Fashion Week was flamboyant. The best way to get tongues wagging amongst the exuberance and excess of Milan’s most established houses, then, was to play it cool. That’s where Jil Sander SS18 came in.
Lucie and Luke Meier’s first collection for Jil Sander could not have been staged at a more befitting venue than the Fiera di Milano. Created by the late Zaha Hadid, the all-white, minimalist and streamlined complex perfectly mirrored the collection. The clean lines of the building evoked the sharp tailoring Jil Sander is known for. The black logo that was being hastily fixed on the wall mere moments before the show opened added a clear message to this dialogue between space and content: in 2017, Jil Sander was a concept in the (re-)making.
Romantic and professional partners Lucie and Luke Meier weren’t exactly household names prior to the show. Luke’s background lies in street wear, having worked for 8 years at Supreme. His ultimate ambition is to bring a classic high-fashion style to to the young people today. Lucie Meier’s career was forged at the celebrated Parisian houses — Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, and most recently Dior, where she co-led the Women’s Ready-to-Wear line after Raf Simons’ departure.
Perhaps coincidentally, the Meiers’ collection for Jil Sander did at times evoke Raf Simons’ work for the brand. There was a pop of sky-blue, reminiscent of Simons’ AW12 collection. His structured leather gown from the same year is reflected in the Meiers’ SS18 glitter dress.
However, minimalism dominated. Opening with a plethora of all-white streamlined looks, rare disruptions of colour punctuated the black, white and ivory sequence. The cropped trousers — Jil Sander’s all-time staple — were cut in a sharp, contemporary silhouette. Menswear jackets were boxy, while the clean silhouettes and lightweight fabrics echoed the quintessential Jil Sander look from the 1980s. The navy streamlined trench coat, yet another Sander classic, was re-introduced with a novel detail – a high slit at the back, allowing a glimpse of white lining. The Meiers’ biggest addition to the Jil Sander playbook was a range of lightweight knits in subdued hues. Devoid of ostentation, they added a refreshing note without changing the mood of the show.
Compared to the brand’s bold forays into prints and colour in recent years, Jil Sander SS18 seemed to be a clean slate. A fitting start, perhaps, for two designers working under the moniker of “The Queen of Less.”