Make Break Remix: Fiona Bae on the Rise of K-Style

The fashion world has been fixated on Korean style, but many remain unaware of those behind-the-scenes, who are at the forefront of creating the trends that have been the object of their obsession. With an almost fanatical attraction for K-Style, propelled by K-pop stars and idols, the question remains of how the culture has had such a rapid success. SLEEK got the chance to talk with expert, Fiona Bae, regarding her book, ‘Make Break Remix: The Rise of K-Style’, to learn more.

SLEEK: When it comes to K-Style, one unique facet is the traditional elements that are incorporated. Compared to the 2010s, with so many Korean stars now partnering with big brands such as Chanel and Gucci, do you feel this is being lost?

Fiona Bae: I think many European luxury brands are making a lot of Korean stars, especially the K-pop idols, their ambassadors to prove their global influence; those roles, historically occupied by Hollywood and European stars, are starting to be filled by Asian stars. Some people are worried that as ambassadors of brands like Chanel and Celine, celebrities have an obligation to wear these brands, and might lose their own personality. I think there is certainly a concern; people are saying stars don’t look that interesting anymore because now they’re just covered in luxury brands.

But I think these K-pop stars and their agencies will recognize that risk quite soon and try to go back to what they’re good at, which is mixing and matching. The use of pieces from emerging Korean designers mixed in with their personal style makes their looks more interesting. So, I don’t see it as a Korean traditional style that they’re losing. I see it as, if they only focus on dressing up with these European luxury brands, not really showing the contemporary Korean style, that’s what might make them dull. But as I mentioned, I think they will quickly go back to what they’re good at: mixing and matching luxury brands with streetwear to show their own style.

S: In Korean fashion, trends have always been known to move faster than in other parts of the world. How do you become one of the icons to the K-Pop stars, those that know about trends before they are even happening, in a high speed city like Seoul? They are so, so ahead of the game.

FB: Yeah, they are. I think there are two things. For one, people are very on alert. They’re constantly absorbing new things; they’re very conscious of what’s going on around and adopting it if they like it. So that attitude… In Korea, you should be aware of what’s going on and the speed is so intense. It takes a lot of effort. Then the second thing: trends. I think those Koreans have a very strong intention and desire to feel authentic. They are not just copying and following what’s already out there. They’re the ones who are fearlessly trying to stay original by adopting new things and remixing them to show their own style. But I think it’s kind of exhausting. You can’t just relax.

S: With stores like Heaven (Marc Jacobs) placing a big emphasis on Japanese street style, and the likes of publications such as FRUiTS magazine having given those styles a platform, how do you think the authentic K-street style can be shared with the world?

FB: It’s interesting that you mention FRUiTS Magazine because when my publisher had a first meeting with me, they mentioned it, saying, we feel like there is so much energy on the streets in Seoul, so we want to make this book like FRUiTS. But we’re in a different era: nowadays, it’s so digital. People consume images from Instagram, Facebook, and YouTube instead of print magazines. I knew our book needed to go deeper, which is how we decided to interview people shaping Korean culture rather than just having the images.

Compared to the 90’s when Japan was dominating the scenes, the spread of images is so instant; you can see new trends immediately.  I think that’s exactly why Korean style and culture has gained explosive global influence so quickly. As soon as a K-pop star wears something, by the next day, people know who made it, where to get it, and then  they start wearing it. I think there are enough images available, but very little text to explain why and how it’s happening, so that is what I wanted to provide through my book. That’s why I wanted to talk to those creatives and tell their stories. I thought it would be interesting to speak to them directly and have their voice heard.

S: As said by 99percentis “Instead of trying to be stylish, style should naturally come out.” This seems to be a shared mentality among those on the K-style scene. How do you think that this laid back attitude, compared to many other places in the world where trendsetters desire to be seen at every moment, makes K-Style different? 

FB: These people are so confident. They don’t care what other people think or are saying about them. As long as they feel that what they’re doing is original and authentic, that’s enough for them. And I think that attitude brings more respect from a larger group of people who are so conscious about how they are seen and how they are being understood. The confidence sets the trendsetters apart. And I think it comes from the fact that they work so hard, they know that what they’re doing is not just copying, but something they haven’t seen anywhere else. They know that what they’re doing is original.

S: The search for identity is a key theme of this book. Do you feel that a stereotyped idea of what K-identity is in the media has caused a stronger push-back from small artists and designers? How do you think they are still searching for their identities while the world is trying to force one definition on them?

FB: When I was recruiting the artists for my book, the first thing I had to explain to each person was that I wasn’t trying to box them in. I realise there is so much diversity and interesting contrast in what Korean artists are doing. I wanted to highlight what Korean artists are creating instead of trying to define them or say, this is a certain style that Koreans are using, because there is no one style.

What’s interesting was that some people I interviewed in my book, whether they are fashion designers, or product designers like Kwangho Lee, told me that there is a certain style which feels very Korean. And Lee himself told me when he sees certain furniture or lighting, he can tell it is Korean. After doing my book, I tend to believe that it’s a very non-conformist attitude that Korean artists are applying.

S: Something I found interesting was the discussion of the rejection of mass media by certain Korean fashion brands. Why do you think that some Korean fashion labels have the desire to stay niche?

FB: I think people are aware, those designers are aware, of how people in Korea always look for new trends. When something becomes popular or famous, everybody tries to copy that, but then it becomes quite uncool. Some brands are aware of that, and try to be careful, and cautious, because they understand that if everybody is wearing their clothes, then it’s not cool anymore for the people who started the trend.

I recently did a story about Korean skate fashion, and I heard that some of the brands skaters wore became very popular, for example, Thrasher. Thrasher is a skateboarding magazine from the US, and they became a fashion brand. A lot of people in Korea started to buy their products, not even understanding that it was a skate magazine, or how the trend started. Everybody wore the brand because they thought it was cool, but then real skaters, they stopped wearing it just because. I think some brands know that they want the core fans, who understand their brand and culture, to follow and wear their brand rather than everybody, so they’re trying to be cautious.

S: With celebrities starting to wear more bold colours and designs, what do you think the influence of K-Style is on the men’s fashion industry?

FB: I think a lot of interesting things happening in K-style are counter-reactions to a very repressive society. People care about external recognition very much in Korea due to such a fast-growing economy. It has always been competitive; people really care about what other people think of them. There is a lot of stress and control in society. But, I think when there is such repression, as a counter-reaction, something really interesting happens.

When I was growing up, for instance, guys were not dressing the way they do now. I think they started to rebel. Also, the whole Korean society cares so much about looks. I think guys realised that and thought things like, why is skincare only for women? I want to look good too. And then they started using grooming products and wearing makeup. They shaped their eyebrows and got their eyebrows tattooed. And a lot of celebrities, for instance, like K-Style icon G-Dragon, broke down a lot of stereotypes by how they dressed. When he became the ambassador for Chanel, that had a big impact as men started to follow his look. So I think K-pop idols, the ones who are wearing a lot of makeup for the stage, have a huge impact on how Korean men dress up.

S: How much do you think traditional values are integral to K-style?

FB: More than most people think, there is a very strong traditional attitude which has brought about the success of Korean culture. Korea has a strong desire to learn new things; learning is a huge virtue in Confucianism. So I think that plays a really key role, that people are always so curious about discovering new things. In the 60s and 70s, we were also one of the poorest countries, but in the late 70s, we developed a pretty strong economy.

Recovering Japanese occupation and then the war with North Korea, going through that turmoil, trained Koreans to be very practical and very adaptable to new changes. And I mentioned in my book that what happened in  Brooklyn within 10 years takes one year in Seongsu-dong in Korea to happen. So that’s the speed. Those are the factors which come not necessarily from our tradition, but from Korean history. And I think that’s the appeal to a lot of different cultures.

S: How do you think that those outside of big cities such as Seoul are shaping K-Style? 

FB: The Korean diaspora is playing a really important role in shaping and sharing Korean styles in other cities: New York, LA, Paris, Berlin, London, Hong Kong, and Singapore. Many Koreans are passionate about their origin and culture. They’re proud that it’s gaining so much attention. They are the ones who share Korean fashion, food, and drama with their friends and at schools. They are really advocating it.

For instance, Danny Chung, who writes lyrics for Blackpink, was a rapper himself in the US, but he faced a wall because as an Asian, it was difficult to be mainstream. He came to Korea with this vast knowledge about how to become successful in the US market. That experience really helped Blackpink or other musicians in the YG group become more appealing to US and international markets.