All images courtesy Marcell von Berlin
Marcell von Berlin SS21, launched earlier last week, it’s literally on fire. The flame, the guiding motif of the collection, is meant to represent passion, lust, and joie de vivre. An inner drive that the designer found in brave, fun, dynamic, and independent women. Edgy and mature at the same time. Therefore, the creation of a cosmopolitan line with a sensual take, slightly inspired by the ’70s, with cowboy boots, jumpsuits, textures, and vivid colors. Marcell von Berlin invites us to live our lives to the fullest, embracing every emotion and following the flame that burns inside us.
You have brought a style of street couture which feels distinctly tied to Berlin. In the USA: how has it been received?
In the U.S., we have built up a large fan base thanks to the brand’s strong connection to Berlin. People identify Marcell von Berlin as a lifestyle – an actual piece of Berlin. Berlin is bold, vibrant and very international, as Marcell von Berlin is. This slightly rebellious attitude has and always will magically attract people.
What would you say is the biggest difference between Berlin’s style and overarching approach to ‘Fashion’ and the dressing habits in LA?
Berlin’s street style plays by its own rules, you can wear a couture skirt in combination with a classic cashmere black top, chucks & a shopping bag and it´s something very normal to wear. No one cares about how you dress. Everyone has its own unique style. It usually looks totally thrown together, but there is often a concept behind it, even if it doesn’t appear to be.
In L.A., on the other hand, people dress more sporty, usually in combination with a luxury accessory, like a signature bag or extraordinary shoes. Also, the attitude is so nonchalant. You have Hollywood but at the same time that coolness, like we have in Berlin.
Actually, Berlin and L.A. have a lot in common. Both cities transport a hip “easy-to-wear” vibe that inspires me and offer enough space for personal development.
I also want people to slow down a bit, take a breath and feel excited again. This feeling has somehow gotten lost, because today everyone is flooded with products from all sides. You don't have to wait for anything anymore.
You’ve previously stated that designs for SS21 have been influenced by several women who inspire you — can you share any further details on who your muses are along with the values that they embody?
I am surrounded by so many strong women in my personal but also professional environment. I admire their strength, bravery, perseverance, but also assertiveness, also throughout history. What women have had to fight for years, if not centuries, has often been what men took for granted. Women are indeed the stronger sex.
You’ve centred passion, lust and lebensfreude at the conceptual heart of your collection. What do these emotions mean to you and why were they your focus for SS21, particularly given the wider context of the times?
I was inspired by women that have that flame and inner drive inside. They are joyful and strong at the same time. They prosper through independence and fearlessness. Therefore, the everlasting flame is the quintessential representation of the unapologetic, astute, passionate woman.
The flame motif that is imprinted on your fabrics could be interpreted as a representation of an inner drive: an eternal flame that burns inside you. Are there any moments early on in your career which sparked your inner drive?
After graduating from Parsons School, I have worked for big-name designers but quickly realized that I wanted to create my own fashion. I loved New York but understood that I need to go somewhere else to find my inspiration. And this is where I found it, in Berlin nightclubs, on the streets between West and East Berlin.
The advice I would give any artist would be: pursue your inner urge to create. Chase it and fathom it. Believe in yourself and don’t give up. It will bring you right where you need to be.
From this season onwards, you’re planning to merge your ready-to-wear and couture collections. What was the motivation behind this decision?
For a long time, it was the case in the fashion industry that a designer had to present several collections a year to stay in the conversation. This approach still dominates the market today, although many designers are gradually moving away from it. I’ve also decided to present (only) two collections a year, although the Couture will always be a part of Marcell von Berlin’s spirit.
I want my designs not only to merge but to evolve. I want to really get into it and create something timeless. I want my clothes to become a kind of art, something that people can buy and have for years. I also want people to slow down a bit, take a breath and feel excited again. This feeling has somehow gotten lost, because today everyone is flooded with products from all sides. You don’t have to wait for anything anymore. Everything is made available.
Beyond SS21, what does the future hold for the label?
First and foremost, I wish that we all come out of this Corona crisis not only healthy but stronger and grateful for everything we have achieved so far. But also, we have planned many exciting collaborations on the American market and sales will be further expanded. And then we will see. We are always up for surprises, so stay tuned.
Discover Marcell von Berlin’s SS21 collection here.