Marina Hoermanseder. Photo © Anastasia Muna
One sunny Monday afternoon in Berlin, Sleek Magazine met up with Vienna born and Berlin based fashion designer Marina Hoermanseder to talk about her new collection, her fashion week debut at this years Berlin Fashion Week, and how she hopes to break the convention of hard leather use in high fashion.
How did you first get involved in fashion design?
I started off with economics, international business actually, in Vienna and in London at the LCC. Even though this is what I initially studied, I always knew wanted to be and work in fashion. I moved to Berlin, after 24 years in Vienna, to attend fashion school and I think it was definitely the right choice of city for me. Berlin is such an inspiring city for me and I have the chance to build up the perfect network, with all the creative people here.
I think that’s why doing my first Fashion Week show in Berlin was a really good choice because it was easier for me to get an audience, supporters, and a full tent. I could’t have done that anywhere else at that point. I think that Berlin is a good starting point for me, and I would love to have a few more Fashion Weeks here.
What was the inspiration for the current collection?
The main inspiration for the AW14 collection, and also the first, SS14 collection, was orthopaedic appliances and using techniques used in orthopaedic practice that gives the body support. For example, I have one particular body piece makes you feel so straight and after twenty minutes can be a little uncomfortable because you just are not used to standing that upright! Another inspiration for the leather pieces was the human brain, especially the textures of a brain, which I create by wet moulding the leather.
Do you think there is a difference between these two collections?
Oh definitely. For my first collection I only had leather pieces, but for the AW14 collection I knew that I was showing at Berlin Fashion Week so I wanted to show that I can do fashion design as well, and not only leather design. In a way I think the AW14 became slightly more commercial but I always included the leather detailing on the garments so that the customer who wear my pieces has this esprit which I think my brand now has.
When did you begin working with leather?
It was at fashion school as we had a lot of freedom, and it was here that I started working with leather and buckles. I really had to train myself in the way of leather, and the techniques, as no one at the school knew it. It’s really great on the fashion course at ESMOD Berlin, there was no restrictions for the show, it didn’t need to be commercial only wearable, but if there was a unconventional method then we needed to teach ourselves. It was really great.
How did you train in leather?
I spent days in a saddlers, and it’s here that they taught me exactly how to cut the edges, finish the leather off, etc. As well as all of the tools and equipment, as before I didn’t know anything about it really. After my time there I decided to get my own tools and machines and began making the pieces at home on my own.
Many of your pieces look like they have been sculptured around a specific body shape. Is this the case?
Exactly. Some of my pieces are custom made to the customers specific size, for instance the body piece I mentioned earlier. Then I have other pieces which are entirely leather, but yet still wearable, such as the buckle skirt seen at Berlin Fashion Week. This piece is available in different sizes, so even though it is constructed totally out of hard leather, it does have a wearability to it.
You spoke about the inspiration for the recent collection, but what will be the inspiration for the SS15 collection?
I am thinking of staying with the orthopaedic inspiration, as this is something that is very interesting to me and to work with leather and the shapes. Strangely, even going to Animal World teaches me how to work with leather, how to manipulate and work with it in different ways! The next collection will definitely be wearable pieces with leather elements once again, mixing soft and delicate pieces with the structure and form of leather.
With leather pieces and leather harnesses becoming a must-have fashion accessory in recent seasons, do you take inspiration from leaders in this field such as Zana Bayne and Chromat?
To be honest I was also thinking about this. I knew I didn’t want to be the next Zana Bayne at all, and because she is doing something so different to what I am doing, and absolutely in the fetish market, I don’t think there is a comparison. What I am trying to do is something new. I am really trying to combine the use of leather with high end fashion, and I want to show that I can do fashion; that I can make patterns, different designs, silhouettes.
Another thing which I think is very different between my work and designers such as Zana Bayne and Chromat is that I never use black. The only time I have incorporated black into my leather was for the menswear collection collaboration with Berlin brand SoPopular, and then I decided to use black buckles instead of silver to go more into the fashion aesthetic rather than the fetish direction.
Do you think people’s perception of hard leather in fashion is changing?
I hope so! I hope that peoples perception of leather wear changes, and you know, when people order my pieces I don’t ask what it’s for! This is why it’s important for me to incorporate leather aspects into non leather garments, I want this hardness that leather brings to be able to be worn on the streets. I think the buckle skirt again is a good example of the look of leather being paired with elegance. And it is really this elegance touch that I want to continue.
What’s next for Marina Hoermanseder?
I’m now working on the summer collection, and working on incorporating a real “summery touch” with hard leather. Who knows, it could even be a bikini in hard leather, but for dry use only of course (laughs)!