Marta Jakubowski, Autumn/Winter 2015, photography by Soraya Jansen. Courtesy of Marta Jakubowski
London-based and Polish-born Marta Jakubowski is a true adventurer – when she moved to London three years ago to study fashion design she had neither funds, nor a clear plan for the future. Now the fresh graduate of the St Martin’s MA programme, the owner of her eponymous label and a NEWGEN nominee, which means her show at this year’s London Fashion Week will be sponsored by the British Fashion Council.
Jakubowski may be casual when making fundamental life decisions, but heedful of her fashion. Her collections consist of streamlined, endlessly long silhouettes in classic colours with unexpected flashes of flesh evoking the style of Arte Povera. Sleek talks to the designer about her breakthrough in fashion and the inspiration behind her elegant clothes.
Marta Jakubowski, Pre-collection, MA Womenswear, photography by Bror Ivefeldt. Courtesy of Marta Jakubowski
You graduated only a year ago and have already been chosen by NEWGEN to participate in LFW. How does that feel?
It’s amazing. I’m really grateful for this opportunity. I remember coming to London three years ago with only one suitcase and no plan for the future. I wasn’t even sure if I would be able to start the MA, because I didn’t have any funding. It’s crazy that I’m able to run my own brand now, which is very challenging but extremely exciting. There are so many difficulties and things that go wrong and need to be sorted out every day. I believe that the best thing is to remember where I’m coming from and acknowledge the development. It wouldn’t be possible without all the support. The mentoring, which comes with the NEWGEN sponsorship, is more than great, as I’m able to get advice from experienced professionals.
Marta Jakubowski, Autumn/Winter 2015, photography by Soraya Jansen. Courtesy of Marta Jakubowski
Could you tell us something about the collection you are going to present during London Fashion Week?
The new collection is inspired by women kept in closed institutions like hospitals, asylums, shelters and prisons. I was looking at people in these institutions and how they deal with the environment. It’s about strong personalities which are not accepted by our society and are often misunderstood.
Marta Jakubowski, Pre-collection, MA Womenswear, photography by Bror Ivefeldt. Courtesy of Marta Jakubowski
You work with a very recognisable style. Where does the inspiration for these streamlined silhouettes come from?
I’ve always liked silhouettes which are a bit longer. It might be because I’m short and always used to wear clothes which are too long. That became a silhouette I like.
Which designers and artists have influenced your work?
For the new collection I was looking at female artists such as Jane Evelyn Atwood, Donna Ferrato and Mary Ellen Mark. I find their photography very touching and piercingly real. That’s what usually fascinates me in artists’ work. If it makes me feel some kind of emotion and if I can refer it to my own experience or pictures I have in my head.
Marta Jakubowski, Pre-collection, MA Womenswear, photography by Bror Ivefeldt. Courtesy of Marta Jakubowski
Who is the woman you create your clothes for?
The woman I’m designing for is a lot like me, I hope. She does not think too much about what to wear in the morning. She is confident about her wardrobe and knows there is always something that would fit and is comfortable. She has timeless pieces she has had for years. She wouldn’t eat a burger less just to fit into something, her clothes are comfortable and she doesn’t have to iron them.
Marta Jakubowski. Courtesy of Marta Jakubowski
What, in your opinion, is the most important thing about clothes?
I think clothes should emphasise the character of the person wearing them and not the other way around. I love it when someone has his or her distinctive style. It doesn’t matter where the garments were bought and how expensive they were. I love pieces you can wear for years, clothes which are timeless and don’t comply with any trends, that highlight the character without changing it.
Spring/Summer 2016 collection by Marta Jakubowski can be seen at NEWGEN London Showroom on 21 and 22 September
Interview by Ira Solomatina