Courtesy of @gucci.
In no small part due to coronavirus, the physical IRL fashion show is on the way out, making way for the digital presentation—a visually flexible, cost-effective and environmentally conscious format of fashion show. From 14-17 July, Milan fashion week will be migrating online, showing both menswear and womenswear collections. Although a considerable amount is still to be revealed about the upcoming presentations, innovative formats to look forward to over the next three days include VR collections, fashion films and ‘Phygital’ experiences. Below are five of the most exciting presentations to look out for.
Ermenegildo Zegna XXX
Audiences of Zegna’s SS21 presentation can expect to see the brand’s elegant menswear offered in a futuristic, new format described by the house’s artistic director Alessandro Sartori as ‘Phygital’. In a recent interview, Sartori explained that the show would incorporate real models alongside a combination of cinematography, photography and music to create an “innovative, very special screen” experience. It is no secret that prior to the pandemic, fashion shows were optimised for front-row viewing but Sartori and his team believe that now is the ideal time to pivot towards creating digital collections catering to the home viewer.
Prada
Anticipation is mounting for Prada’s upcoming digital presentation. Entitled Multiple Views—The Show That Never Happened, The brand stated via social media that it would replace the “singular statement” traditionally communicated by runway shows for “the perspectives of many”. Although set to feature the work of artists such as Juergen Teller and Martine Syms, it’s not yet clear whether any of the new perspectives offered will include that of Raf Simons. In February, it was announced that Simons would take up a co-creative director role alongside Miuccia Prada. The duo’s debut collection was initially slated for a September reveal, but in light of Prada’s new collective approach, Multiple Views might just prove the perfect time to usher in Simons’ Prada vision.
Sunnei
Such is the scale of spectacle surrounding fashion week, that sometimes it’s possible to forget that these events are intended to function as global trade shows. With the vast majority of buyers’ unable to travel to Milan this season, Sunnei have created a new digital platform entitled CANVAS to debut their SS21 collection. The virtual platform will directly cater to the needs of buyers as well as to the casual viewer. CANVAS utilises VR technology to graphically represent the new season’s pieces whilst also giving buyers the option to view the same garment on different model avatars. Buyers from selected retailers will also have the opportunity to customise 50 genderless pieces from the SS21 collection all of which will be made in white by default. As the name suggests, Sunnei will allow these retailers a blank canvas from which they will be able to customise the finer details of each garment.
Children of Discordance
Tokyo-based brand, Children of the Discordance are newcomers to the Milan schedule, having previously shown collections to critical acclaim in their native Japan. As digital fashion weeks become the norm, a more critical emphasis is likely to be placed on brands’ ability to tell a story through their collection. For their SS21 presentation, Children of the Discordance have opted to create a fashion film entitled, The Protect Archives II. The throwback film aims to inform the audience of the label’s skating heritage and origins while showcasing pieces from its new collection at the same time. This season’s MFW will serve as many international audiences’ introduction to the Japanese label and SS21’s updated digital focus may have offered it a greater storytelling framework than a classic fashion show could have.
Gucci
Upon opening the preview for Gucci’s SS21 presentation, you are greeted by a cryptic, black VHS screen reading “will this story ever end?”. Although we don’t necessarily know how the story ends, we do know from the title of the show, Epilogue, that this certainly is a conclusion of sorts. Details remain scarce as to the format of Alessandro Michelle’s co-ed presentation, but this show will resolve the open ended narrative arc of last season’s, An Unrepeatable Ritual show as well as ending the house’s exhausting commitment to showing five times a year. The SS21 collection will be unveiled via a 12-hour livestream on various social media platforms including Gucci.com, YouTube, Twitter, Weibo and the Gucci App.