We love a statement piece and Milan Fashion Week Men’s was not short on bold choices for SS20. Unlike some seasons where there are strong parallels between collections, this time around, everyone seemed to be designing for a different personality altogether. From Versace’s fluorescent partygoers to Emporio Armani’s intrepid parachuters, and Fendi’s gentile gardeners, there was something for everyone at this season’s shows.
Fendi’s Call Me By Your Name collaboration
Courtesy of Fendi.
Held in the bucolic surroundings of Milan’s Villa Reale, Silvia Venturini Fendi teamed up with Call Me By Your Name director Luca Guadagnino to produce a collection reminiscent of the filmmaker’s wistful Italian holiday aesthetic. The SS20 collection was punctuated with lattice cut-outs, loose tailoring, verdant garden shades, watering can travel bags, and even a face or two that resembled Timothy Chamalet.
Two-faced looks at Versace
Courtesy of Versace.
Donatella Versace dedicated her SS20 runway to the late frontman of UK band The Prodigy, Keith Flint, who passed away earlier this year. Like the electronic dance act, the collection was brimming with an unruly neon aesthetic — studded with shocks of technicolour hair and bold leopard print — taking inspiration from Flint’s love for fearless dissymmetry. Many of the looks were literally torn in two – with suits spit down the middle in Prince of Wales check or leopard, paired alongside classic black.
Sunnei’s “I hate fashion” t-shirt
Courtesy of Sunnei.
Ever since Viktor & Rolf’s slogan-heavy haute couture collection earlier this year, meme-able fashion has well and truly been having a moment. Sunnei, a young Milanese brand, eagerly jumped on the bandwagon: half-way through this easy-breezy, unisex collection, a model walked down the runway in t-shirt bearing the Instagrammable phrase, ‘I hate “fashion”.’ But beyond the tongue-in-cheek silliness, there was a lot to love about this collection too: cool whites, oversized platforms and carefree volume — meaning we are not quite sure we hate fashion yet.
Mad Hatters at Marni
Courtesy of Marni.
One thing is clear from Marni’s Francesco Risso latest collection: he wants change and he wants it now. Taking style cues from mid-century revolutionaries such as Che Guervara, the collection had a radical vibe illustrated by khaki prints, jaunty berets, militaristic boiler suits and army jackets. Risso is thinking about the environment and sustainability — the show was held in Marni’s headquarters beneath a giant fishnet festooned with plastic debris from the ocean — but he was also having fun with ‘60s art school graphic prints and the ridiculous papier mache hats.
Emporio Armani’s futuristic parachuters
Courtesy of Emporio Armani.
For his SS20 menswear collection, Giorgio Armani was looking to the future. With swishing trench coats, harnesses, industrial waistcoats and shiny textures, there was a sense that the models were stepping into the future, or another dimension à la The Matrix. The futuristic vibes were cemented by the billowing parachutes signalling new planes for the house of Armani.
Phillip Plein’s Glam Rockers
Courtesy of Phillip Plein.
When in doubt for fashion inspiration, referring to your old record collection is generally a good place to start. That’s exactly what the German fashion designer did for his latest show, drawing inspiration from ‘70s glam rockers, Kiss. Presenting an array of looks for both men and women, face paint, bejewelled biker jackets, studded pirate boots, bandanas and statement suiting managed to be both unapologetically glamorous and badass at the same time.
Eat, sleep rave repeat at Les Hommes
Courtesy of Les Hommes.
If there’s any collection this menswear season that’s a big mood, it’s this one by the Belgian duo. Combining smart school boy silhouettes — think boxy shorts, elegant tailoring and ankle socks — with colourful ‘90s rave elements — shimmering bomber jackets, slogans paying homage to the designers’ native Antwerp and techno, club-ready belt bags, on-trend cycle shorts — it’s a vibe we can all get behind. And don’t forget those holographic wraparound sunglasses — an essential for taking you from the classroom, to the rave, and back again.