In the past, there existed a misguided notion among fashion critics that menswear was inherently “boring” when compared to women’s collections. Where female-focused designers had more room for creativity, men’s collections were thought to be full of restrictions. Recently however, the industry is full of change. As designers push society’s boundaries with regards to clothing and gender, we see understated androgyny on one hand and striking flamboyance on the other. This change has given way for increased freedom for labels to explore men’s fashion to the full.
Here, we present Craig Green, Justin O’Shea, Grace Wales Bonner, Sam Lambert and Shaka Maidoh – five creatives shaking up the menswear scene and dispelling the myth that men’s collections can’t be fun.
The Print Professional
Craig Green
Never one to shy away from a pattern or two, Craig Green creates designs that are full of printed ornamentation. Past presentations at London Collections: Men have featured classic paisley and even tie-dye. But the Central Saint Martins graduate doesn’t stop there. Instead he goes one step further, playing with colour and volume for collections that are anything but dull.
The Sartorial Rockstar
Justin O’Shea at Brioni
When Brioni announced Australian Justin O’Shea as its newest creative director, the fashion industry became awe-struck. With no prior experience designing, the appointment of O’Shea was an interesting move for the Italian fashion house. The tattooed bad boy seems to be fitting into his role quite well given his CV, incorporating some much needed edge into the sartorial label’s image. He even featured Metallica in the brand’s most recent campaign, proving that suiting-up doesn’t have to look so stuffy.
The Menswear Embellisher
Grace Wales Bonner
Winner of this year’s LVMH prize and one of the most buzzed about designers right now, Grace Wales Bonner blends European menswear designs with a traditionally African counterpart to create collections that challenge western notions of luxury. Incorporating ornate jewels and glittering sequins into her work, the designs also confront modern perceptions of masculinity.
The Tailor-addicted Rebels
Sam Lambert and Shaka Maidoh at Art Comes First
A creative collective that focuses on fashion and – you guessed it – art, Art Comes First rose to fame for its strong dedication towards well-tailored collaborations with the most innovative names in sartorial design. The duo behind the project is Sam Lambert and Shaka Maido, two self-described tailor addicts whose rebellious menswear offerings are equal parts Marlon Brando and André 3000.