5 shows that have us talking from New York Fashion Week so far

Since newly appointed CFDA chair Tom Ford has slashed the New York Fashion Week calendar down to 6 days, the schedule is more packed then ever—but without a drop in quality. And while coverage of NYFW is traditionally dominated by powerhouse designers such as Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs and Ford, there are plenty of emerging talents and lesser known designers creating groundbreaking and boundary-pushing work. Even though NYFW is only half over, we’ve already seen plenty of great shows—here are some of our favourites so far.

Pyer Moss

Accompanied by a black gospel choir belting out gospel classics, Megan Thee Stallion’s “Big Ole Freak” and Cardi B’s “Money” along with others, Haitian-American and New York-bred Kerby Jean-Raymond of label Pyer Moss presented his SS20 collection at Brooklyn’s Kings Theatre on Sunday night. This is his third runway show set to the backdrop of a gospel choir -— and yes, he’s been doing it since before Kanye West’s Sunday Service. The cast of all black or mixed-race models strutted down the makeshift runway in a barrage of vibrant colours, opulent silks and bold, retro prints, inspired largely by Sister Rosetta Tharpe, the legendary gospel, jazz and blues musician who is often cited as the “godmother of rock.” 

The musically influenced collections features silhouettes that resemble the curve of a guitar, bags in the form of musical instruments, and prints designed in collaboration with Richard Phillips, a black man who had been exonerated after spending 45-years in prison for a murder he had been wrongfully convicted of. He tided over the years in prison by painting. Always politically charged and referential of African American history, Jean-Raymond’s presentations continue to be a standout at NYFW. As if the outstanding new collection wasn’t enough, the designer has another major achievement to celebrate— – his appointment by Tom Ford to the board of directors of the CFDA after years of criticism facing the organisation for its lack of diversity.

Prabal Gurung

Originally intending to hold his 10th anniversary show at New York’s Hudson Yards, politically active Nepalese-American designer Prabal Gurung relocated the spectacle to Spring Studios after the developer behind Hudson Yards, Stephen Ross’ intentions to host a multimillion dollar Trump campaign fundraiser were revealed. Featuring a diverse cast of models, the collection was very signaturely Gurung:paisley, floral and tie-dye prints, dramatic sleeves, and plenty of feather detailing. In a nod to traditional “American” style, something we’ve been seeing resurface on the fashion circuit for a while and doesn’t seem to be stopping anytime soon, there was plenty of denim, cargo trousers, and multi coloured cowboy boots. An overall fabulous show, perhaps the most poignant part of the presentation was its finale as  the models strode back down the runway in their looks and pageant style sashes which posed the question, “Who gets to be an American?” Born in Singapore and raised in Nepal before immigrating to the United States, Gurung addresses the question that is being posed by many in today’s divided political climate.

Collina Strada

While we firmly believe that politics should be at the forefront of people’s minds, many fashion brands are also making a conscious stand on sustainability and environmentalism. Almost all of the pieces in Collina Strada’s SS20 collection were sustainably sourced and made of recycled materials. The models, ranging in age from infants to the elderly, touted some interesting accessories—a vine of grapes, a bundle of kale, and the kind of shopping trolleys you might see someone’s granny pushing around at the grocery store (certainly more eco-friendly than plastic bags.) From upcycled mesh tops to hand painted bodysuits with pleas to save the planet, to a topless model scribbled over in messages calling for climate change awareness, it was certainly an eclectic show. The beauty looks are also worth commenting on: floral appliqués and vegetables adorned faces —appropriate as the show was held at a farmstead.

Tomo Koizumi

In what will probably be one of the more memorable shows on the NYFW circuit this season, Japanese designer Tomo Koizumi brought the theatrical aspect that is so sorely missing from many of today’s monotonous runway shows. Modeled by 18-year-old transgender model Ariel Nicholson, the spectacle was an hour long one-woman show that captured the breadth of human emotions as told through Koizumi’s spectacular confections and Nicholson’s exaggerated performances. The best way to describe the massive organza gowns is extra. Featuring bows and mounds of frilly ruffles, the garments swallowed Nicholson, exposing only her head which was glammed by the legendary Pat McGrath and whose hair was done up in a dramatic cone by stylist Guido Palau. Having only made his debut last season after gaining the attention of renowned fashion stylist and editor Katie Grand, Koizumi has also earned the support of one of NYFW’s heavyweights, Marc Jacobs who has given him use of his atelier and Madison Ave. shop for the show. Since his debut last season, Koizumi is a guaranteed Instagram favourite. 

Chromat

Cult swim and activewear label Chromat celebrated their 10th year anniversary show with yet another exhilarating and energetic presentation that championed inclusivity. Celebrating body positivity from the get-go, the brand has a loyal fan base who share its values. The pieces were a medley of colour-blocked swimsuits, bustiers, and cut-out corsets, all awash in neon. The show culminated in an electric performance from rapper Rico Nasty. And while being incredibly representative on the runway, Chromat’s price point up until now hasn’t been the most accessible, selling exclusively through other online retailers who up the price. Seeking to rectify that, they are now switching to a direct-to-customer model to make sure that their wearers are as various as the models that proudly walk their runway.