Nowhere do seasons change more visibly than in fashion. As Jacquemus sombreros turn to Marine Serre balaclavas, Spring/Summer’s transition into Autumn/Winter isn’t just visible — it’s wearable. But from reflective sports sunglasses to functional nylons, it seems there’s one major thing transcending the seasons — fashion’s embrace of outdoor sportswear. As climbing carabiners and buckle belts hold on to their new-found place in new era luxury (thanks to brands like Prada and Alyx), high performance sportswear continues to emerge as covetable fashion. But why? What makes this aesthetic of extreme survival so sought after?
On one hand, fashion’s infatuation with outdoor gear is a sure sign of technological innovation, as the industry focuses on high performance and durable materials. But on the other, it stands for something deeper. In a world of uncertainty, wrecked by the fear of climate change, natural disasters, political unrest and worldwide displacement, aren’t we all united by a desperate will to survive? A-COLD-WALL*’s Samuel Ross thinks so. Since his label’s inception, the designer’s output has always implied an element of survival — be it in the oppressive urban environment or within the constraints of social hierarchy — but in his latest endeavour for sports performance brand Oakley, the LVMH Prize nominee took his vision into the great outdoors.
While at first glance Oakley’s and Ross’s might seem like an unlikely pairing — Oakley’s reputation for goggles and cycling helmets doesn’t exactly scream high fashion — the two have more in common than meets the eye. Firstly, Oakley, and everything it stands for, has been thrust into the fashion realm by the fashion cycle itself — those neon green ski sunglasses your Dad used to sport seem more catwalk than cringe now. That, and the pair are united by a shared vision for practical and high-performance clothing, one that’s only elevated by Ross’ cutting-edge design ethos. It’s why A-COLD-WALL* is not only a feat in terms of fabrics (crafting clothes with everything from tarpaulin to thermoreactive plastic), but a brand with substance, transporting British class issues and the rough edge of the street into a menswear context. And, it’s exactly why Oakley by Samuel Ross takes high performance sportswear to the next level.
Following in the footsteps of A-COLD-WALL*, the collaboration demonstrates a curious duality: the beauty and comfort of the pieces versus the anxiety of the contemporary condition. “I was trying to imagine my generation interacting with extreme outdoors scenarios,” the designer explains. “It’s about the modern protagonist in the outdoors, and asking if you could survive for 24 hours, and what would you need to do so.” But for Ross, it’s not as much about the darkness, as it is about evolving and moving forward. “I think we’re a little fearful of what the future may look like with technology, which could be the next step in human evolution. An attempt to tap into this subconscious fear has led to a trend for technical garments and survival gear,” he explains. “But you can also look at all the craft industries, like boutique perfumes, restaurants and coffee shops — there is the yearning to go backwards, back to nature and to a more humanistic way of living.”
Set against the mountainous Lake District landscape, long black nylon coats, jackets in muted mouse-grey, clear glasses and shimmering silver trousers make for a perfect combination of futurism and romanticism. “The greatest thing was making clothes which almost feel invisible,” says Ross of the collection. “Some of the longer pieces look just so seamless and perfect. The long black draped pieces are my pure energy.” Outdoor clothing has rarely been regarded in a fashion context, let alone marketed to the younger consumer, but the times are changing and designers like Samuel Ross are at the helm. While there’s no guarantee that Oakley will ever be held in the same regard as the Off-Whites and COLD-WALLs of the fashion world, if there’s any move that’s going to elevate its status, it’s this one.
