Nastaran and Yasaman Rezaee. Image Courtesy of Pairi Daeza.
Pairi Daeza translates to ‘walled garden’, a mythical place in Persia (ancient Iranian kingdom) which embodies the concept of a godly paradise where women are treated as the incarnation of the sun. The sisters Nastaran and Yasaman Rezaee behind the Italian-based label are creating a world in which the woman is highly respected; a narrative rooted in the past of Persian heritage, but is now a desired future for many girls and women in Iran. Expressed in functional designs for the modern woman combined with a focus on sustainability, Pairi Daeza shouts for a revolution – a revolution for every woman that is being oppressed by the patriarchal system, for those who need to fear for their life by simply just existing.
SLEEK talked to Nastaran Rezaee, the business half of the sister duo, about their creative process during these times, their ongoing collaboration with marginalised communities in Iran and her utopian visions for the future of women.
Image Courtesy of Pairi Daeza.
SLEEK: You and Yasaman are sisters as well as business partners. Where did the wish to work together derive from and how is it affecting your private life?
Nastaran Rezaee: Well, we haven’t been very successful at separating our business and private life. This project is so entangled with our suffered identity and passion, that it’s very hard for us to talk about anything else. We have always been very close, so I think we knew that we would like to stick together in every step of the way. Living in Milan encouraged us to pursue post-graduate education and professional experience in fashion after we both studied different subjects. We really compliment each other, it’s one of our biggest strengths.
S: Your designs are all based on Persian, or better to say, Iranian design. Do your inspirations come from memories, lived experiences, something your mother has worn or somewhere else?
NR: All of those! Our mother is an architects, so she has definitely contributed to our sensibility for aesthetics; and of course, our childhood memories in Iran, as we were both born and raised there. But also Italy, where we have lived for more than a decade now, has taught us a great deal about how to incorporate an antique heritage into the modern world.
S: What is the creative process of translating ideas of ancient Persia in your modern designs?
NR: Our creative process starts by deciding on the mood and concept of the collection, which is always a transmission of mystic Persia, ancient Iran, meeting the modern world. Then we translate that mood into practical styles, while deciding what art and craft form we want to include. The key for us is to always keep the right balance between mysticism and eco-responsible pragmatism in our designs.
Image Courtesy of Pairi Daeza.
S: You are advocating for sustainable, slow fashion. What techniques and craftsmanship is behind your clothing?
NR: Everything we do focuses on sustainability as a main priority: we don’t use any animal products, we upcycle deadstock fabrics and our pieces are made in Italy to last a lifetime. There is an on-going collaboration with craftsmen from Iran, who use several ancient Persian techniques such as ‘Ghalamkar’, a hand-printing technique used in natural fabrics, or ‘Khatam-kari’, an ancient marquetry technique. Sustainability is fundamental for us, especially from an ethnical and cultural perspective, which plays back to us striving to sustain the heritage of Iran.
S: Where did this collaboration of working with marginalised communities in Iran derive from?
NR: Since we can remember, our childhood home has been filled with artworks from Iran and other cultures that my parents have collected through their travels. Being their children, we followed their foot-steps and travelled to many places inside and outside of Iran. What we realised was that Iran has an enormous heritage of craftsmanship, which hasn’t received any proper attention or treatment through years, certainly not from our government. Hence, these crafts haven’t been able to evolve with time, which is why we saw great potential in working with them together.
S: Does the political and societal state in Iran currently influence this connection?
NR: Yes, definitely! Now that the internet is cut off in Iran, we can’t exchange information, photos and videos of prototypes like we used to anymore. In addition to that, these craftsmen are in different cities of Iran which makes the transportation and shipment during this time period anything but easy.
Image Courtesy of Pairi Daeza.
S: You once said it’s time for a revolution. In which way does that call for protest come to life in your designs?
NR: We are designing for women, placing them at the centre of our craft. As women ourselves, we know that most of us don’t have figures like those of models, so by incorporating pleats, buttons, elastics and zips in specific parts, we’ve tried to create an ease of movement for the activist lifestyle of the women of today. ‘Boteh’ is the main pattern of the collection, which is the symbol of freedom, life and eternity in Persia. Which one of the above isn’t considered to be political or even revolutionary in the context of our government, for whom even a few strands of women’s hair pose a significant threat? It is definitely time for a revolution.
S: How do the current protests and acts of violence against women influence your creative state of mind?
NR: It’s been very hard to concentrate and distract ourselves from all the horrifying news we receive from Iran. We are very emotional and cry all the time, sometimes we get so angry that we lack oxygen. But we are trying to channel all that frustration into creativity, one that defends our heritage; our true identity. The young Iranian girls of the revolution are our muse and they truly inspire us, they are the type of invincible woman that we would like to create for. These women have forever changed the image of our country, from the picture of old and cruel Mullahs changed into a country of young courageous women who are warriors of freedom.
S: What is your utopian imagination of what modern Iran can look like?
NR: Iran can recall a point in its ancient history, when the world’s first human rights were written there, when all races with different ideologies lived together in equality and peace. The modern Iran would have a growing economy that can sustain the hopes and dreams of the young generation, and let them be happy on the streets in the open air instead of being suffocated on the ground. The modern Iran would be a place where women can live their freedom and equal rights, letting their beautiful hair flow in the wind.