Paris once again was the main fashion spotlight during an eight-day marathon. This season was no different regarding the usual fashion musical chairs and the drama or gossip that goes with it. Stefano Pilati presented his last show for Yves Saint Laurent, sealed with a standing ovation and accolades from Anna Wintour. Hedi Slimane will step in as new creative director at YSL. The daily dish on the still vacant position at Dior alternated between former Jil Sander designer Raf Simons, Maxime Simoens, who’d only recently completely revamped Léonard, and Haider Ackermann, who was also responsible for the week’s most harmless gossip: it was said that an opulent flower bouquet was sent in his name to Dior’s headquarters.
Alber Elbaz, maybe commenting on the nature of the industry, impressed with a version of Que Sera Sera at his 10th anniversary at the helm of Lanvin, before throwing a cake and champagne party. Last but not least, “designer” Kanye West wasn’t a complete failure this season! We actually found a whole of three silhouettes in his biker/hip hop/wannabe Givenchy collection that actually made sense.
Some obvious trends: Models swathed mainly in leather variations – matt, crinkled, painted, you name it. Also with hints of fur, at Gareth Pugh’s. Exaggerated peplums on sensuous silhouettes were spotted at Lanvin and Haider Ackermann, who both succeeded with emotionally stunning and serene shows. Lacoste designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista, who showcased his eponymous line and wunderkind Pedro Lourenço both opted for a distinctive patchwork of fabrics, with leathers, silks and wools, carved into sporty yet feminine silhouettes.
Then there were some Asian inspired prints and embroideries at Dries Van Noten, while Léonard and Mugler went for Kimono-like cuts. In general, the focus was set on a fitted waistline. The colour-palette was decent, mostly comprising mineral nuances and splashes of indigo blue and light pumpkin. We saw iridescent hints of metallic or copper shades, as seen at Cédric Charlier’s debut show. But above all, this season was about embellishing the garment’s surface: Young designer Olivier Rousteing, who took over the reins of Balmain after Decarnin’s departure, finally managed to bring some refinement into the house’s signature sexiness, with embroidered floral tapestries and pearl detailing. Guillaume Henry conjured up a medieval scene, printing motifs from master paintings on girly bubble dresses, and Stella McCartney showed sporty silhouettes adorned with floral swirls. Finally, the others, the non-commercial “outsiders” such as Jean-Charles de Castelbajac or Bernhard Willhelm, showed cheerful, even audacious collections.
Photographer Nicolas Aristidou spotted some memorable moments on and off the catwalk. See you next season!
All photos © Nicolas Aristidou