“People inspire me. I’m always reading about our world” – Peet Dullaert
Peet Dullaert’s meticulous technique, rare outside of couture, makes him a real gem. He established his label at only 23, and has been releasing collections that experiment with draping and fit ever since. Eschewing the “bigger is better” trend championed by Demna Gvasalia at Vetements, Dullaert’s ready-to-wear ensembles are expertly ingenious cuts that create compelling silhouettes.
For his brand’s SS17 collection, Dullaert tapped into galactic phenomena. “Celestial bodies and cosmic exploration serve as a beautiful metaphor for the adventurous and inquisitive mind,” he says. “This season, I aim to look beyond the conventional by celebrating harmonious alternatives.” Such sentiments are indicative of his gender-neutral approach to style, a trademark touch that extends to the delicately frilled white piping that appears in past collections as well as some of the outfits in his forthcoming range. Dullaert refers to this technique as “Zen-line”, a title designating the harmony this recurring motif provides as it shows up from one collection to the next.
Although outer space is Dullaert’s current obsession, his ideas come from a source that’s closer to home. “People inspire me, whether [via] the news, or through conversations with those close to me,” he explains. “I’m always reading about our world, making new discoveries, and educating myself on the problematic and political things that drive me nuts. This collection is a creative response to it all, and it’s very personal.”
Accompanying the SS17 collection is an equally other-worldly lookbook full of dreamy images that showcase models reclining on big rock formations. The naturally occurring shape of each colossal boulder is not unlike Dullaert’s own designs, which seem to follow a logic of their own. Sandy dunes and dusky blue skies complete the mood, a nod to the collection’s colour palette, comprising neutral shades of beige as well as regal shades of ruby.
“Shape is vital to me, it goes hand-in-hand with the movement of everyday life” – Peet Dullaert
The designer describes this creative process as organic. He sets aside the received wisdom of his craft and maintains an open mind about how to render his concepts. “I don’t follow any guidelines, but I do make sure that each garment gets its shape through draping. Shape is vital to me, and I feel it goes hand-in-hand with the movement of everyday life. Creating certain shapes and catering to modern life is essential for creating harmony in a collection.” Though this attention to detail has turned many of his contemporaries green with envy, Dullaert remains modest and philosophical about the success of his vision. “ I experimented and found my own way to deal with form and construction. Every collection is a new study, and I greatly believe in the connection between the wearer and the garment, which has become [the] cornerstone to my work.”
Like his previous collections, Dullaert debuted his new work at Paris Fashion Week. Indeed, he spends so much time in the French capital that it’s practically become his home. “The city is a beautiful epicentre for fashion. I presented my first collection there 5 years ago and still enjoy it all,” he says. Despite the stress and frustration that organising a fashion week event can entail, Dullaert looks forward to the Paris showcase as a chance to unite his entire team – even if only temporarily. “Of course I can’t wait to see the collection come to life, but I’m also excited to have everyone come together once more. Because we operate in many cities around the world, we aren’t always able to see one another. [PFW] serves as an opportunity for us to be together, and I really enjoy these moments.”
“Life is about movement, and having a dynamic vision leads to growth” – Peet Dullaert
Not one to spend too much time dwelling on the past, Dullaert instead has his sights set on the future. “Sometimes I’ll analyse things from past seasons, but it’s also important to look forward to what I can do next,” he says. “Life is about movement, and having a dynamic vision leads to growth.”
