Last week, Prada helped kickstart fashion month with a bang, relaunching its Prada Sport line — that inimitable purveyor of 90s athleisure, renamed Linea Rossa in 2009 — and thrilling streetwear and luxury sportswear fans in the process. But while most are familiar with the coveted line of high fashion garments, boasting the form and materiality of high-tech outdoor wear and a distinctive red stripe logo, what many may not be aware of is the extraordinary precedent the Sport collection set when it first graced the scene back in 1997. Here, in celebration of the the newly reimagined Prada Linea Rossa, we bring you a bite-sized guide to its storied past.
What is Prada Linea Rossa?
The line’s story can be traced back to 1984, when Prada debuted their now-iconic nylon backpack, remarkable for its co-opting of the highly durable, synthetic fabric which, back then, was completely at odds with the luxurious textiles usually favoured by high fashion brands. In an interview with The New Yorker, Miuccia Prada described the item as “the industrial way of doing things [mixed] with the patrimonio of the past, the artisanal tradition.” Perhaps it was the bag’s huge and instant success — combined with the arrival of Neil Barrett at the design house in 1995, with his sleek, monochromatic vision for Prada Men’s — that set the cogs in motion for Prada Sport, which launched, with Barrett at the helm, in 1997. While other fashion houses, like Dior and Issey Miyake, had taken the leap into sports lines ahead of Prada, none had dreamed up pieces that so masterfully merged what the house dubbed “metropolitan” clothing with elements of “technical mountain” wear — and the result was remarkably futuristic.
Why was it so innovative?
Prada Sport was far beyond its years for many reasons – the biggest being its use of the so-called “wrong” materials. No fabric was off limits for the line, which adopted formerly taboo textiles with complete ease and freedom. Take industrial nylon, for example – a tough, utilitarian material most commonly known for its role within the mass production of parachutes and stockings. Prada took this formerly outlawed material and used it profusely throughout the Prada Sport collection, completely ignoring the naysayers and head-shakers, and instead making waves with their groundbreaking, mostly monochrome designs — including one of the first designer tracksuits.
What was its role within 90s and 00s subculture?
With the dawn of a new millennium just within reach, there was a desire for new and exciting clothing that captured the essence of the moment, while looking to the future. And Prada did just that with their Sport collection: a space-age offering for the masses that appealed to vast swathes of the community.
Prada Sport was extremely popular, for example, within football culture, as an alternative brand to Stone Island et al. However, it also succeeded in simultaneously appealing to the UK drum and bass communities, as well as fans of Garage and Grime. The irresistible appeal of the collection within all of these subcultures was down to one reason: Prada Sport’s unprecedented uniting of functionality and style. The clothes were well-tailored, boasted a cool insouciance and carried the hefty brand name, while allowing you to sweat it out on the dance floor all night in complete comfort. As Barrett eloquently put it at the time: “why be purely functional? When you’re spending that money, have it look great too”.
Why is it making its return over two decades later?
In the current climate, the demand for unique luxe streetwear and sportswear offerings is as an all-time high. As the millennial and Gen Z markets grow exponentially, so does the demand for new, innovative “athleisure” pieces.
Prada have heard the cries and stepped up to the plate with their re-imagining of the cult collection: a timely reminder — as industry insiders proclaim that Prada is growing bigger and better than ever — that the Italian behemoth has always been ahead of the game.