Image Courtesy of Richert Beil.
RICHERT BEIL
Richert Beil’s AW 25/26 collection MUTTER delves into the emotional and physical toll of relentless caregiving, using the figure of an exhausted mother as a powerful symbol of unseen labor. The show expands beyond gender, offering a meditation on the pressures of modern life – where the constant demand to nurture, produce, and perform erodes authenticity and genuine human connection.
Presented in the historic Fichtebunker in Kreuzberg – once a wartime shelter for mothers and children – the show’s setting reinforced its themes of resilience and protection. These ideas found direct expression in the collection itself, where second-skin stretch dresses, buttoned to the top with hoods drawn tight, evoked both constraint and intimacy. One was worn by a heavily pregnant model, underscoring the weight of responsibility carried by caregivers. Precision tailoring balanced this softness, with sculpted double-breasted overcoats featuring strong shoulders and structured sailor collars. Another standout was a voluminous black coat with a curving silhouette, layered over leather. Trousers, seen in cotton drill and even latex, followed a striking pattern: high-waisted with straight legs and an arched seamline sculpting the form. A mother and son walked hand in hand, reinforcing the show’s central themes of love and endurance. Symbolic gestures heightened the narrative—a model carrying two canisters of milk, another cradling an ostrich egg from which a flower bloomed. The collection’s powerful narrative was complemented by Vagabond, the official shoe partner, whose designs seamlessly aligned with the collection’s themes.
Image Courtesy of SF1OG.
SF1OG
SF1OG presented the AW25 collection in the industrial setting of Halle am Berghain, offering a bold reinterpretation of the uniform – not just as functional attire, but as a powerful symbol of identity and self-expression. Drawing inspiration from historical craftsmanship and personal memories, the collection bridges nostalgia with modernity, incorporating influences from indie and rock music scenes, where uniforms have long been redefined as symbols of rebellion and individuality. This season’s silhouettes embrace a sharper, more structured aesthetic, with clean lines and a refined, almost severe elegance. Innovative techniques and unexpected material contrasts play a central role, juxtaposing luxurious fabrics with rough textures to create a dialogue between past and present. Leather details, adorned with studs and pins reminiscent of military embellishments, further reference subcultural codes of belonging and defiance.
Footwear also serves as a key storytelling element. Inspired by the well-worn, customized Chuck Taylor sneakers of youth, SF1OG collaborated with Converse to create a range of distinctive, personalized styles that echo this spirit of individuality and shared identity. Accessories follow the same ethos, with the label reinterpreting the iconic shutter shades of the late 2000s. In partnership with Berlin-based 3D design studio NEWFORMAT, SF1OG has given the legendary frames a futuristic update.
Image Courtesy of Lou de Bètoly.
LOU DE BÈTOLY
Lou de Bètoly unveiled its AW25 collection on February 1st, transforming the historic Spiegelsaal at Clärchens Ballhaus into an intimate stage, centered around a solitary grand piano. The collection playfully reinterpreted haute couture traditions with a mix of drama, luxury, and subtle irony. Crafted entirely from pre-owned materials, the forty looks embodied meticulous craftsmanship and an intuitive design approach. Vintage nightgowns were hand-pleated into fluid, almost liquid silhouettes, while deconstructed brassieres became sculptural bodices. Everyday objects found new purpose – reflective bike fragments shimmered in halter tops, leather jackets were reshaped into cascading ruffles, and silk blankets were transformed into intricately beaded evening gowns. Personal elements also featured throughout, such as handmade knitwear adorned with chicken feathers from the designer’s family garden.
A standout bridal piece crafted from aging lace and crystal embellishments explored the tension between fragility and opulence. Accessories played a key role, with leather handbags from Liebeskind Berlin customized with signature beaded crochet and charms, and Roeckl gloves adding a refined touch.
Highlighting circular fashion, the collection included a collaboration with eBay, where select vintage garments were sourced for reinvention. Workwear brand Dickies contributed deadstock fabrics, further showcasing the designer’s ability to transform humble materials into couture-like creations. Natural hair care brand Leonor Greyl shaped the show’s hair looks, complementing the collection’s ethereal mood.
Photography by Finnegan Koichi Godenschwege. Image Courtesy of GMBH.
GMBH GmbH’s FW25 collection, Intervention, presented during Berlin Fashion Week, was an introspective response to turbulent times. Rather than seeking new references, the designers revisited their own archives, finding comfort in past ideas and reaffirming their creative codes. Inspired by Norwegian modernist poet Gunvor Hofmo, whose existential works explore grief, loss, and parallel realities, the collection reflected on elegance, dignity, and self-worth through a serious approach to tailoring and craft. The result was a striking interplay of sharp suiting, voluminous white gazar, and draped faux fur stoles, evoking a sense of restrained glamour. Oversized cabans contrasted with ultra-long, zippered leather waders, while exaggerated square-toe boots grounded the looks with a raw edge.
Photography by James Cochrane. Image Courtesy of Laura Gerte.
LAURA GERTE
Laura Gerte’s AW25 collection, LOOPED & BOUND, explores the intersection of human and machine, organic and artificial, through a lens of transformation and hybridity. Drawing on cyborg theories and future punk aesthetics, the collection balances strength and fragility, with upcycled materials like vintage T-shirts, silk scarves, wool, nylon, and even old cables reimagined into skirts and handbags. These materials are reshaped into silhouettes that blur the lines between protection and provocation. The color palette of black, red, and grey contrasts twisted suiting, lingerie-inspired details, and flowing silk, creating a fusion of intimacy and armor.
The show itself was an immersive experience that broke away from traditional runway formats, with models and performers weaving through a spiral-shaped audience, guided by the choreography of Dafni Krazoudi. The soundtrack, composed by DJ Gigola, and the poetic monologue by Samja Zad deepened the connection between humanity and technology, reflecting the collection’s ethos. Set designer Marilena Büld and light designer Lars Murasch added a powerful visual dimension, while stylist Luisa Probst interpreted the collection with her signature dark femme style. LOOPED & BOUND presents a bold vision of fashion’s future—subversive, sustainable, and forward-thinking.
Image Courtesy of Vogue Runway.
WILLIAM FAN
William Fan marked a decade of his eponymous label with his AW25 collection, Alter Ego, drawing inspiration from the rich theatricality of Peking Opera while merging past and present, East and West, workwear and elegance. Signature silhouettes from his archives were reimagined with intricate detailing—ruffled scarves evoking movement, embroidered vests nodding to traditional opera costumes, and denim pieces adorned with Cheongsam-style fastenings. Accessories played a key role, from pearl-embellished handbags to futuristic sunglasses that hint at Fan’s evolving aesthetic. Reinforcing the collection’s theme, the runway featured not just models but actors and TV personalities, some styled in dramatic hair and makeup, blurring the line between costume and self-expression.