Photography by Boris Marberg. Image Courtesy of Sia Arnika.
SIA ARNIKA
One of this season’s highlights was the AW25/25 collection of Berlin’s contemporary designer Sia Arnika, a show that explored the theme of duality through contrasts such as disarray and ornamentation, the mundane and the provocative, and the art of layering and shaping. Inspired by silent film icon Asta Nielsen, Arnika’s presentation at Berlin Fashion Week, held in a former club at Potsdamer Platz, unveils an enigmatic figure reminiscent of Nielsen, drawing parallels between their journeys. Through meticulous curation of light and sound, Arnika immerses the audience in a world where sensuality and darkness intertwine, delving into the transformative power of clothing, fabrics, and expression, with textures, shapes, and deconstruction serving as the foundation for the collection’s narrative.
Photography by James Cochrane. Image Courtesy of Lou de Bètoly.
LOU DE BÈTOLY
Presented by designer Odely Teboul, the AW24 collection from Lou de Bètoly intricately weaves together elegance, extravagance, and sustainability through innovative upcycling and local artisanal production. Set against a dystopian backdrop at the former Habitat furniture store, the collection plays with illusion and distortion, challenging reality perception with powdery lingerie-inspired looks and garments crafted from reworked vintage textiles sourced from flea markets and European partners. Traditional techniques like embroidery and knitting meld with contemporary aesthetics, resulting in tactile luxury pieces ranging from delicate lace dresses to fluffy creations and distorted coats. The collection’s unique twist lies in its transformation of waste materials into haute couture, embodying Lou de Bètoly’s ethos of combining fragility with chaos and innovation with nostalgia.
Photography by James Cochrane. Image Courtesy of Lueder.
LUEDER
The MONO-MYTH collection by Lueder is a thrilling odyssey through the world of fashion, drawing inspiration from the hero’s journey to craft innovative designs that transform menswear essentials into functional armour, safeguarding body, mind, and soul. From denim to eco-nylon, each material embodies a deeper metaphor, echoing Lueder’s dedication to sustainability. With the artistic flair of Tintoria Emiliana‘s custom dye techniques, signature pieces like engineered flare jeans and armour hoodies come to life, while collaborations with partners like Vibram 5 Fingers and visionary artists inject vibrant energy into the collection. As Lueder takes centre stage at Berlin Fashion Week, her showcase transcends mere fashion, inviting viewers on a mythical voyage of positivity, unity, and rejuvenation, marking a groundbreaking milestone in her career.
Photography by Boris Marberg. Image Courtesy of Namilia.
NAMILIA
Namilia‘s AW24 collection, “Pfoten weg!” dazzled the crowd with its bold blend of medieval armour, military aesthetics, and glamorous trash inspirations, all while defiantly addressing the hate towards individuals navigating public spaces. The collection showcases a rich array of prints and materials, including realtree motifs and bespoke monogram prints, juxtaposed with pinks, rhinestones, chain mesh, stretch lycra, and vegan leather. Introducing new silhouettes and couture-inspired designs, the show was set against the backdrop of the illustrious Kulturforum in the Gemäldegalerie, accompanied by an original soundtrack by SH3L. Emphasising diversity and collaboration, Namilia aims to empower wearers with confidence, power, and allure, urging them to embrace their truth and reclaim agency over their bodies and identities.
Photography by James Cochrane. Image Courtesy of Richert Beil.
RICHERT BEIL
Jale Richert and Michele Beil celebrated the 10th anniversary of their label Richert Beil with the “Heritage” collection, paying homage to traditional German fashion and the style of their grandmothers. Revisiting signature pieces from their debut collection, they deconstructed familiar silhouettes and styles, incorporating unconventional materials and design techniques. The collection featured precise tailoring alongside deconstructed twin sets, cardigans, and smocks, complemented by sentimental accessories like pearls and heirloom necklaces. Emphasising inclusivity, diversity, and sustainability, “Heritage” showcased models of various ages, genders, body types, and ethnicities alongside innovative designs and bold silhouettes, aiming to inspire the fashion industry towards greater inclusivity and sustainability. A delightful detail that elicited smiles from the audience was a model with a birthday cake adorning their face.
Photography by Ioannis Papadakis. Image Courtesy of Gerrit Jacob.
GERRIT JACOB
Gerrit Jacob broke new ground as the first designer to kick off Berlin Fashion Week with his debut in the innovative showcase format, Intervention. Jacob’s presentation unveiled streetwear-inspired looks adorned with vibrant neon airbrushed prints, reflecting his trademark fusion of craftsmanship and innovation. His designs delve into themes of identity and self-realisation, inviting wearers to embrace their individuality and connect with their unique narratives, while strong flashlights transformed the location into a stimulating stage that allowed the audience to immerse themselves in the colours and shapes of the looks. With his visionary approach, Jacob sets the stage for a fresh chapter in fashion, promising to inspire a generation of creators to challenge conventions and reimagine the possibilities of sartorial expression.
Photography by Ioannis Papadakis. Image Courtesy of Anonymous Club.
ANONYMOUS CLUB
The FW24 collection by New York-based collective Anonymous Club was presented in the intervention space in Neukölln as part of the program alongside Gerrit Jacob and back2back. Led by Shayne Oliver, the core of Anonymous Club’s ethos is his own eclectic vision, seamlessly blending art, music, and fashion. Collaborating with diverse artists like Tama Gucci, Izzy Spears, and more, the club redefines the urban uniform through the concept of “headlessness,” coined by Oliver to represent extravagant attire. Drawing inspiration from nightlife and experimental archives, the collection embodies Oliver’s multifaceted personality, offering a bold statement in contemporary fashion.
Photography by James Cochrane. Image Courtesy of SF1OG.
SF1OG
SF1OG‘s captivating AW24 collection unfolds a mesmerising narrative of school days in a nostalgic setting—the gym hall, meticulously curated by creative director Rosa Marga Dahl in collaboration with Kyra Sophie Wilhemseder. Drawing inspiration from school life in former East Germany, the collection offers a multi-generational perspective, blending playfulness with meticulous craftsmanship. Each garment, from pleated skirts to unevenly striped shirts, showcases SF1OG’s unique lens on modernising school attire, incorporating repurposed materials like linen from the 18th and 19th centuries alongside leather. The presentation at Ernst-Reuter School not only underscores SF1OG’s commitment to authenticity but also redefines the perception of the school, aligning with its mission to challenge norms. Dr. Martens and Eastpak collaborations further accentuated the collection’s artisanal aesthetic, while the soundtrack evoked memories of teen life in the 2010s, creating a truly immersive experience.
Photography by Boris Marberg. Image Courtesy of William Fan.
WILLIAM FAN
William Fan‘s highly anticipated February show surprises yet again, this time showcasing his Ready-to-wear collection in the warming hall of the Olympic Stadium, perfectly complementing the thematic essence of his designs. Titled “OFF DUTY,” the collection celebrates leisure and identity exploration, free from societal norms. With a focus on simplicity and versatility, structured cotton fabrics dominate the collection, offering suitcase-friendly options ideal for various occasions. Washed, desert-inspired colors evoke a leisurely vibe, while the introduction of a new sunglasses collection adds to the laid-back aesthetic. Embracing Berlin’s diversity, many models are cast directly from the city streets, reflecting the dynamic spirit of the collection and William Fan’s personal values: honesty and quality.
Photography by James Cochrane. Image Courtesy of Olivia Ballard.
OLIVIA BALLARD
Olivia Ballard unveils its Fall/Winter 2024 Collection, “Le Lit” (The Bed) – An ode to identity, solitude, and sensuality, at Berlin Fashion Week in collaboration with Berlin Contemporary. The collection explores themes of desire, comfort, and personal reflection, centering around the symbolic significance of the bed as a place of intimacy and vulnerability. Dresses inspired by blankets, a pillow as a top, and white down scattered in the models’ hair created a soft and seductive atmosphere while dark looks interrupted the feeling of security like nightmares. Set in the iconic Pressecafé at Alexanderplatz, the show features a punk oneiric landscape with models gracefully navigating a circular runway amidst the aural fantasia sounds of the three-headed musical creature La Chatte. Supported by the Berlin Senate Department for Economics and Fashion Council Germany, the collection showcases a diverse celebration of identities through its thematic and aesthetic exploration.