Runway Roundup: Best of Berlin SS25

Image Courtesy of Haderlump.

HADERLUMP

Hangar 6 at Tempelhof Airport reopened his doors for Haderlump to introduce their SS25 “AERO” collection. Next to two planes and Techno music, the models presented silhouettes with narrow waists and broad shoulders, oversized coats, reinterpreted flight jackets and standout pieces such as a floor-length maxi dress statically robust due to a fixed corset, in a neutral color palette of black, brown, white and blue – blending together seamlessly and combining traditional and contemporary styles. The usage of leather, recycled bomber jackets, parachute fabrics as the key materials and accessories such as leather caps, silk scarves and vintage aviator goggles clarify Johann Erhardt’s special inspiration for the collection : Amelia Earhart – the first woman to cross the Atlantic in a non-stop flight. Once again the young fashion labe demonstrated the versatility in fusing different styles and influences.

Photography by @godenschweger.photography. Image Courtesy of LUEDER.

LUEDER

Opening the show with a vape trickster creating dispersing smoke rings, the ‘RUBEDO’ SS25 Collection by Lueder was presented in the Tempodrom at the Berlin Fashion Show. Inspired by the pinnacle of alchemical tradition, ‘RUBDEO’ symbolises the ultimate transformation, merging ego and self, uniting body, soul, and spirit, and reintegrating the individual with the collective. Surrounded by dispersing smoke rings, the models created a symbolic ring to embody alchemical principles. With exclusive footwear support by Puma and reflecting traditional Hermetic processes, Marie Lueder worked with a colour scheme of various earth tones, recognisable, structured pieces with mediaeval silhouettes, and accentuated elbows and shoulders out of denim, jersey, and nylon, staying true to her reconstructive designs.

Photography by @godenschweger.photography. Image Courtesy of GMBH

GMBH

GmbH returned to their hometown to open Berlin Fashion Week with their SS25 ‘RESISTANCE THROUGH RITUALS’ and present their new androgynous designs. The runway show took place at the iconic Berlin Tempodrom, and not only the location matched GmbH’s Berlin dusty, techno/industrial aesthetic, but also the sudden rain shower reinforced the overall mood of the SS25 collection. Dressed in key elements like technical materials, boxing-inspired designs, tailored blazers with wide hoodies, and patchwork tops, the collection provides an exciting contrast. ‘RESISTANCE THROUGH RITUALS’ not only impressed with distinctive designs and a bold and empowering statement, pushing back against injustice and oppression, but also introduced exclusive footwear for the first time without a collaboration. GmbH once again presented their ongoing exploration of resistance in their designs.

Image Courtesy of SF1OG.

SF1OG

SF1OG presented the SS25 collection in the rough interior of Umspannwerk and invited their audience to celebrate craftsmanship while blending playfulness with meticulous expertise. Presenting exciting textural contrasts, intricate knit pieces paired with design pieces in pink, blue, and green paired with mini custom backpacks and shopping bags created in collaboration with Eastpak, Rosa Marga Dahl and Jacob Langemeyer showcased designs with marketplace references such as patchwork shirts made from antique kitchen linen and plaid shopping bags on T-shirts. Supported by Dr. Martens with classic footwear, a live performance by rock band Golden Hours, and three furry special guests on the runway, SF1OG embodies the diverse everyday lives of people and represents a variety of diverse characters, ages, and body types, breaking with the conventional norms of the fashion industry.

Image Courtesy of Richert Beil.

RICHERT BEIL

Sunburned skin and a fishy smell are not the typical characteristics that get associated with Berlin Fashion Week, different from “BADEMODENSCHAU” the Spring/Summer 2025 collection by Richert Beil. Featuring a dystopian ‘Fischbrötchen Stand’ designed by Stefanie Grau and a collaboration with Ebay to highlight sustainability by transforming vintage treasures into unique pieces, it took place in a captivating gallery space at Potsdamer Platzt. The gender-inclusive collection merged heavyweight tailored pieces with conventional and simple summer attire, latex and rubber with the finest Italian materials, and a monochromatic colour scheme. Presenting a diverse cast at the Runway show, unique pieces, and a dynamic range of designs, Jale Richert and Michel Beil’s SS25 collection embodies acceptance, innovation, and experimentation.

 

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Image Courtesy of Sia Arnika.

SIA ARNIKA

Between flying breeding boxes and harsh neon lights, Sia Arnika presents her Spring/Summer 2025 ready-to-wear collection to a buzzing soundtrack by Evita Manji to enhance the immersive experience. Presented in a vacant storefront in the Gesundbrunnen Shopping Centre, the Runway show and collection draw inspiration from Asta Nielsen’s variation between her Danish roots and her current life in Berlin and the designer’s personal transformation. Flowing fabrics meet clear lines, deconstructed dresses in mesh, along with sportswear pieces and basic pieces that were transformed into unique designs through cutouts and the art of layering. Paired with black pneumatic bags and new black and white square leather heels and boots, the SS25 collection embodies unity in chaos.

 

Image Courtesy of Namilia.

NAMILIA

With flickering lightning for paparazzi vibes, early 2000s inspired designs, and a collaboration with the 2000s cult brand Ed Hardy, Namilia welcomed nearly 600 guests to present the SS25 ‘Good Girl Gone Bad’ collection at the longest runway of Fashion Week, “the tunnel”. Introducing 60 unique couture-inspired designs, short minis, loud fake fur coats, bright pink leather-look ensembles, and redesigned Ed Hardy original pieces, the collection dives into the lifecycle of fame and societal obsession with celebrity culture. Through the transformation of vintage garments into couture gowns and the creation of handcrafted, high-quality streetwear pieces, the brand embraces queer power and confidence.

 

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Image Courtesy of Clara Colette Miramon.

CLARA COLETTE MIRAMON

Clara Colette Miramon’s first runway show debuts at BFW and presents unique pieces and impressive designs to celebrate female fascination and sexuality. Between softness and aggression, purity and rebellion, and capturing female empowerment, the collection “NESTING” presents corsets made out of denim, figure-hugging designs including slim leggings and miniskirts, and special pieces such as bodies a la Jean Paul Gaultier, a skirt made of white boxing gloves, and a transparent 1960s diner uniform. The contrast between the “Virgin” style and the “Rat Girl” throughout the whole collection reflects nuanced perceptions of femininity and breaks down the patriarchal image of women.

Image Courtesy of Balletshofer.

BALLETSHOFER

Straight silhouettes, an earthy colour palette and models on the runway listening to music on headphones, for the collection “2024-006”, Balletshofer presents their interpretation of “the neural experience of growing with a city and moving in it”. Inspired by the Japanese concept of Ichi-go-ichi-e, which emphasises the uniqueness and irreplaceability of each moment, Alan Balletshofer showcases the evolution of clothing in tandem with personal and environmental changes. The collection balances modernity and simplicity with business-oriented looks and classic tailoring components, such as a grey two-piece suit with blue details or different suits with ties and coats in neutral colors. For footwear, the brand collaborated with Timberland and used the iconic boat shoe as a modern statement piece in various design variants.

 

Image Courtesy of Majère.

MAJÈRE

From paradise to hell: Majère presents, in collaboration with the queer-feminist production label Vproud.uction, their SS25 debut collection, “UNZUCHT”. Combining and questioning religious beliefs and societal norms in the setting of the historic Stadtbad Oderberger, the collection draws inspiration from Bosch’s painting “The Garden of Earthly Delights” and presents various unique designs out of natural materials from surplus stocks and second-hand finds: Statement fur jackets, layered dresses, and a body out of feathers, all created with the idea to create more than just clothing.