Fashion Month is almost coming to an end.
With shows over shows happening every day, take a look at SLEEK’s runway roundup.
Images Courtesy of Dior.
Dior
Nodding to Kim Jones’ fifth anniversary as creative director of the house, Dior presents a tribute to its past designers. Combining a variety of neons and beading with immaculate tailoring, the garments speak to the unique identity of a historic label. Patterned knits and tweed coats graced the runway, creating quintessentially Dior looks through which Jones reminded audiences of his keen ability to have fun with fashion.
Images Courtesy of MAGLIANO.
MAGLIANO
Holiness. That was the theme of MAGLIANO’s SS24 collection. Printed with verses of prayers and thanksgivings, the clothes represent the evolution of the label, and act as a talisman of the state of the brand today. Designed by Karl Lagerfeld Prize winner Luca Magliano, the collection deconstructs the masculine identity, breaking down garments such as overalls and windbreakers that are usually worn for protection. Presented for the first time in typical runway format, the garment’s black and white color palette emphasizes the technical features still present in the clothes.
Images Courtesy of Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton
How do you get every big name in fashion together on a Tuesday night? Pharrell Williams’ debut Louis Vuitton show. Guests were whisked to the event’s secret location as they were taken on a boat down the Seine. When the show began, set on an idyllic bridge in front of the LV headquarters, the viewers eyes swam with the Damier chess board pattern. A keystone for the collection, Williams reinterpreted the brand code using camouflage, creating almost pixelated prints. With a new chapter for the House on the horizon, the celebration of what it means to be a “LVer” was welcomed by all, ushering in the beginning of an era.
Images Courtesy of Andersson Bell.
Andersson Bell
The Seoul based fashion label Andersson Bell brought their unique, street-inspired style to Milan this fashion week. Playing with textiles, the collection featured an array of denim, lace, and loose knits. Utility was a strong theme across the looks, with patchwork pockets adding a sense of functionality to the playful colors and draping. Belts were also a motif throughout the collection, as the designer mixed and matched chunky, contrasting buckles with blue jeans. To complete the looks, the models carried bags shaped like flower vases, putting the collection in full bloom.
Images Courtesy of Valentino.
Valentino
Marking a return to Milan, the Valentino show named “The Narratives” questions the meaning of masculinity. Intimacy and humanity are core values Pierpaolo Piccioli, the brand’s creative director, wanted to convey through altering classic silhouettes. Monochromatic styles went down the runway, adding a hint of softness to the House’s iconic structured looks. With flowing blazers and floral patterns, brand identity was maintained while exploring a new side to menswear. The show was also held at a public university, making it accessible to younger generations.
Images Courtesy of SIMON CRACKER.
SIMON CRACKER
Taking all of their deemed “ugly” trash from the stockroom and turning it into a theory-based, upcycled collection is exactly what Simone Botte and Filippo L. M. Biraghi, founders of SIMON CRACKER, did in their SS24 collection. A hodgepodge of quirky, childish prints, the garments mixed textures and trims, giving the audience a surrealist feel. Deadstock materials and bold accessories were used to represent a world where everything is “in theory”, and nothing goes wrong.
Images Courtesy of JORDANLUCA.
JORDANLUCA
Against a bright red backdrop, the scientifically proven concept that people buy more red lipstick when times get tough was explored by JORDANLUCA. The English label put sparkles and spikes out on the runway this season, ironically targeting those working in big money-making business sectors such as Wall Street. The neutral tones of the clothes contrasted the passion and lust usually associated with the color red, adding to the more somber feeling associated with the theme.
Images Courtesy of Dsquared2.
Dsquared2
With an equally rhinestone and star studded lineup, Dsquared2 brought heat to the runway this fashion week. Baring skin covered by a mix of skimpy seashells and preppy graphic tees, the models swaggered down the runway, all with the glow of artificial tan. Referencing an eclectic variety of looks from the cut up summer camp shirt to the sweater vest, Dsquared exists in a world consumed by, and therefore beyond trends and niches. Walking the show was the likes of fashionista Julia Fox, porn star Rocco Siffredi, and supermodel Esther Cañadas, adding to the universe built by the designers.
Images Courtesy of 44 Label Group.
44 Label Group
Founded by Berlin techno artist Max Kobosil, 44 Label Group brought their roadie-inspired collection to Milan. Titled “On-Tour”, the influence of the rave scene, along with the research done by the brand into a musician’s life on the road, was easily seen in every garment. Hyper-gothic utilitarianism was captured by the oversized pieces, and brought to life in the concrete setting in which the collection was shown. Detailings such as the graphic tees, neon shoelaces, and reflective sunglasses heightened the brand’s experimental looks.
Images Courtesy of Gucci.
Gucci
Shown as a digital lookbook rather than on a live runway, Gucci presents their Spring/Summer 2024 collection celebrating the 70th anniversary of the iconic Horsebit Loafer, which has become an emblem for the House. Awaiting Sabato De Sarno’s debut as creative director, the garments shown reflect on classic Gucci styles and silhouettes. With the use of dynamic silver textiles, as well as a touch of 70’s flare, the pieces nod gracefully to the past, while shaping up towards the future.
Images Courtesy of Études.
Études
An ode to Paris: that is what Études brought to audiences from the city’s rooftops, with a view of the Gothic skyline. The last installment in a triptych of collections, “CRÉPUSCULE”, mixes streetwear with fine tailoring to deconstruct both the garments and any notions of Paris viewers came into the show with. While some of the looks mirrored the hushed tones of the surrounding, others contrasted them with the bright orange silhouettes stark against the evening sky. With references to graffiti and techno culture interpreted through the lens of workwear, the collection’s colorful chaos brought an edge to Paris Fashion Week.
Images Courtesy of EGONLAB.
EGONLAB
On the precipice of decision, EGONLAB’s “Toute première fois” explores the power of choice. Defying gender, the label used a variety of materials from denim to leather to sculpt the body. With a focus on tailoring, the model’s gelled hair and low cut tops made the show all the more punk. Stepping in a new direction, EGONLAB deconstructed and reconstructed notions of elegance through the tuxedo.
Images Courtesy of LGN.
LGN LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI
Most designers pride themselves on their ability to tell stories through fashion; Louis Gabriel Nouchi does so in the most literal sense. Inspired by the 1964 novel, “A SINGLE MAN”, by Christopher Isherwood, the collection delves into the societal structure imposed on men, how they are told to hide their emotions, in a very emotive way. The shapes of the 60’s as well as the melancholic feeling of the novel heavily influenced the garments; the sculpted leather reflects the trauma incurred by the book’s main character.
Images Courtesy of Hed Mayner.
Hed Mayner
Encompassing the models, Hed Mayner oversized “boring” garments making them anything but. From distorted blazers to pinched button downs, the designer obscured the basics. Placing the emphasis on the shoulder, the jackets and coats gave the looks 80’s structure; the many pockets seen throughout the collection also lend to this season’s running theme of utility. Each of the models also wore a key-shaped earring: the finishing touch.
Images Courtesy of Rick Owens.
Rick Owens
Once again, the air at Palais De Tokyo was filled with brooding smoke and Tyrone Dylan led an other-worldly lineup of models down its steps. Though Rick Owens is a label usually known for its brutally un-sugar-coated takes on the state of the world, this collection by the Golden State designer celebrated joy and happiness. Neon fireworks went off in the background as the monochromatic figures paraded across the runway in the typical uniform of distressed tops and Kiss Boots.
Images Courtesy of Jeanne Friot.
Jeanne Friot
An ethereal siren song, Jeanne Friot’s mermaid inspired SS24 collection cries for freedom of identity. Acting as a metaphor for marginalized communities, the story told by “SIRENS” is one to counter a law recently passed in Kentucky suppressing the rights of trans individuals. Cut in body hugging silhouettes, the use of sheer fabrics and plenty of denim gave a mythological feeling to the looks. Giving a voice to those silenced, the collection contrasts a fight against societal constructs with the magical duality of the mermaid.
Images Courtesy of Songzio.
Songzio
Rebel, rebel: in their SS24, 30th anniversary collection, Songzio breaks the boundaries. The collection, titled “Pure Rebel”, steps away for the label’s signature mostly-black color palette, introducing a world of new hues. Intricately draped, the looks explored deconstruction techniques, and elements of layering. The sculptural form of the garments can be attributed to Songzio’s practice based in experimenting with structural integrity.
Images Courtesy of Loewe.
Loewe
Adding a bit of shine to the Loewe silhouette, Jonathan Anderson plays with the concept of creating illusion in men’s fashion. Constantly questioning the industry itself, the designer pushes his audience to re-evaluate the catwalk by playing with shape and materiality. Long overcoats, along with high-waisted pants dominated the Loewe runway this season, emphasizing the male body.
Images Courtesy of Wooyoungmi.
Wooyoungmi
Wooyoungmi’s SS24 collection was inspired by the South Korean island of Jeju; it referenced the highly fashionable female divers who provide for their families through exploring the waters surrounding its volcanic rocks. This rendered a way for the label’s designer, Madame Woo, to reflect on her culture. During the show, the light fell upon the models as it does upon water, glistening as it hit the translucent and shimmering fabrics. Drawstrings were also a key element in many of the pieces, creating wave-like shapes.
Images Courtesy of TAAKK.
TAAKK
Patterns presented in nature take form in knit tops and printed button downs as TAAKK looks into the origins of visual empathy. Attempting to untangle the dualities often seen in design through the use of repetition, the brand questions its environment. The attention to detail throughout the SS24 collection brings notions of perfection to nature’s chaos. Each piece was made through communication with artisans, placing a weight on TAAKK’s design philosophy.
Images Courtesy of 032c.
032c
Last Friday in Paris, Maria Koch presented “Nothing New”. What was the incentive behind 032c’s latest Ready-To-Wear collection? Analyzing the cyclical nature of fashion. Restructuring basics and placing them in monochromatic color palettes was the brand’s commentary on how the “old” is constantly given a facelift and re-presented in the fashion industry. With the loose silhouettes placing focus on the pieces that have remained essentials over time, the SS24 looks create innovative volumes and draw viewers attention.