Photography by Filippo Fior. Image Courtesy of Vogue Runway.
Gucci
All eyes were on Gucci this season, watching Sabato de Sarno’s debut at the Italian house closely. After having to relocate the runway show to the company headquarters instead of it taking place on the streets of Brera, de Sarno presented a collection that was very much reminiscent of Tom Ford’s take on Gucci. At the centre of the collection was the concept of the wardrobe, which manifested into pieces being born that de Sarno liked but couldn’t find anywhere else. High-slit a-line skirts and minis made out of patent leather strut down the runway whose simplicity was well thought through to fit into an everyday wardrobe, marking a new chapter for Gucci.
Photography by Filippo Fior. Image Courtesy of Vogue Runway.
MM6
With a fascination for the everyday uniform, MM6 brought an approach to reimagined formalwear to this season. Taking office wear as its starting point, the team behind MM6 deconstructs and rebuilds classic styles but still keeps elevated tailoring at its front. Through it all, the brand’s identity still shines through with oversized trousers accompanied by leather pieces tying it back to what MM6 stands for.
Image Courtesy of Cormio.
Cormio
Taking the concept of how men can be frightened by women, Jezabelle Cormio, Creative Director at Cormio, designed clothes to function as a medium. The women’s rights movement in Iran made Cormio rethink the consequences of how men act when they are in fear of losing their privileges. These thoughts are manifested in the storyline of “Why you scared?”, a letter written by Jezabelle Cormio and her team which was read by artificial intelligence during the runway show. The demon Jezebel stands at the centre of the letter, a dangerously beautiful woman who seeks power and therefore is intimidating to men who are trying to restrain her. Femininity is visualized in the collection with bags that are shaped to look like a football and studded belts whose harshness can be found again in the boots created in collaboration with Ugg. Contrasting the rough tones are pajama pants and boxers, building a bridge between loungewear and evening wear, soft and hard but after all, it just depicts what it means to be a woman.
Photography by Alessandro Lucioni. Image Courtesy of Vogue Runway.
Jil Sander
This season, Jil Sander’s collection is a study of shapes. The Creative Directors Lucie and Luke Meier created new silhouettes to existing basics as in jackets that almost hold the shape of squares and elongating lines through duster coats. Knit dresses opened the show that opened a new chapter by using modern knitting technologies to create a shape suitable even for going out. The Meier duo became loud with the collection, saying goodbye to minimalistic Jil Sander while still staying true to its roots.
Photography by Filippo Fior. Image Courtesy of Vogue Runway.
Ferrari
The power of desire always has pulsated in the heart of the Ferrari world and its sentiment is also being reflected in the Ferrari Spring/Summer 24 collection. Exuding Ferrari’s allure through fashion, Creative Director Rocco Iannone puts the body at the absolute centre of the scene while the brand’s style codes still remain. This means racing, workwear and tailoring exist in a world that plays with form and material. In reducing to accentuate, Rocco creates a new language of the body by playing with silhouettes.
Image Courtesy of Marco Rambaldi.
Marco Rambaldi
Titled “Malafemmina”, Marco Rambaldi reclaims the derogatory term of “bad girl” in Italian to address the concept of freedom. The girl Rambaldi imagines is a creature not afraid to go beyond gender and is willing to do anything to live life freely. Reflected in the collection, the clothes aim to be a hybrid place where we can be different and where boundaries blur. Traces of imagery of southern Italy can be found in a transversal but not literal manner as in sunlight being filtered through crochet to create a romantic shadow. Swarovski crystals are added throughout the collection to the crochets and satin models which enhance the concept of the “Malafemmina”, with sensuality at its core.
Photography by Isidore Montag. Image Courtesy of Vogue Runway.
Moschino
For their 40th anniversary, Moschino staged a whole play composed by Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Lucia Liu and Katie Grand. Consisting of five acts in total, archive-inspired fashion was combined with performance art, heavily drawing inspiration from Franco Moschino’s silhouettes from the 80s and 90s. Each creator showcased their own take on Moschino’s identity with the finale being models wearing charitable t-shirts that were made in partnership with Elton John’s AIDS foundation.
Photography by Umberto Fratini. Image Courtesy of Vogue Runway.
AVAVAV
Since the past seasons, AVAVAV’s runway shows always held a surprise with their conceptual runways. This time, a viral moment was created with their humorous twist to the typical runway shows as models rushed through the crowd and back to the backstage area. The clothes had sentences printed on them that normally act as notes to unfinished pieces like “ADD BACK?!” while models walked the runway as mascara was streaming down their faces. With this collection, AVAVAV commented on the industry’s extreme time churches of developing clothes season after season while still keeping it fun with their comical visualization of what fashion week actually looks like.
Photography by Daniele Oberrauch. Image Courtesy of Vogue Runway.
Versace
Donatella Versace looked back at the Italian house’s archive for this season’s ready-to-wear show. The collection from 1995 was the source of inspiration for the collection, one that stood out from the rest of the shows from Versace during the 90s. As Donatella said herself, she considered the collection to look fresh and contemporary. But a sense of nostalgia was still added when Claudia Schiffer returned to the runway in a lime green bustier dress after having walked the Versace show all those years ago.
Image Courtesy of Ferragamo.
Ferragamo
In exploring the relationship between tension and balance, Ferragamo’s Creative Director Maximilian Davis takes his design language developed at the Italian fashion house one step further. An organic softness is present throughout the whole collection that combines Italian elegance with Caribbean style. Translated to the fabrics, the clothes are made out of natural materials, linen and cotton to express freedom and subtlety at the same time. Further accentuating the fusion of Italian and Caribbean styles, draping methods are used that are rooted in the 18th-century of Caribbean clothes but that are now combined with the design language of the Renaissance and paired with spazzolato leather bodices.
Image Courtesy of Sportmax.
Sportmax
A future doesn’t exist without the past. Sportmax Spring/Summer collection revolves around the topic of change and suggests a future in which natural and artificial; science and art can exist at the same time. However, it comes with a twist – the nature around us can only be preserved artificially. This idea is translated into a collection that holds both purity and contrast. Geometric silhouettes collide with asymmetries. In addition, structured and padded materials are seen in glossy satins, PVC and sheer transparency to share a vision of the future.
Image Courtesy of Vogue Scandinavia.
Han Kjobenhavn
Set at the Duomo Catholic Church, Han Kjobenhavn founder Jannik Wikkelso Davidsen revealed sculptural creations that had an eerie feeling to them while still maintaining sensuality. Titled “Enlightened Particals”, the collection was based on the location’s artistic heritage; about enlightenment and uncovering hidden capabilities. Silhouettes were enhanced with hardware, bodysuits had exposed veins, feathers grew on outerwear and the grand finale was an otherworldly sculpted wedding gown.