Photography by Daniele Oberrauch. Image Courtesy of Vogue Runway.
LOEWE
High high-waisted pants, t-shirts, and shorts with chewed hems – This Paris Fashion Week, Loewe used some elements of the previous collections, focused on the outline, and developed them further to a whole new fashion story. A reflection of being uptight and the sensuality that breaks it all down. The color palette is much calmer than before: camel, gray, brown, black, accents of red, bougainvillea, and tangerine. There are pieces of a pragmatic wardrobe such as blazers, coats, blouses, capes, and pullovers. All looks are beautiful from afar, but the closer you look, the more details you can discover: Especially the jewelry in collaboration with the artist Lynda Benglis seems like wearable sculptures in pleated, poured, or extruded shapes that mirror the world around them. To celebrate her work simultaneously, Loewe used their bronze sculptures to create an elegant and glamorous set-design.
Photography by Luca Tombolini. Image Courtesy of Ottolinger.
OTTOLINGER
It’s time: Ottolinger brings the 2010s back with big triangle scarfs and side bangs. Pants that stop underneath the knee, embroidered denim, big leather handbags, and the print of a tie á la Magritte and his surrealist pipe. In addition, we have the distinctive elements of the Berlin-founded brand, such as asymmetric shapes, layers and light fabrics, mesh tops, and vibrant colors. On the Runway, Ottolinger also presented its gold high-knee boots and handbags that were designed in collaboration with sportswear brand Puma. Overall, the collection travels from a dark 2010s vibe, through Y2K, antiquity, and futuristic elements to a soft and angelic finale. Just like the looks itself, the press release of Ottolinger leaves a lot of space for interpretation and fantasy: The teaser was just a poetic paragraph about a woman in the mountains, dressed in ancient linen that finally breaks free.
Photography by Filippo Fior. Image Courtesy of Vogue Runway.
MIU MIU
This season, Miu Miu focused on history – the history of beauty and style. With prototypical ideas of clothing such as Swimwear, Underwear, Sportswear, and elegant evening Wear, with embroideries and brocades, Miuccia Prada created a remix of the function and the occasion of clothing. The setting was a landscape of technological ruins, built by the Qatari-American artist Sophia Al-Maria. The Miu Miu SS24 collection and cast is not only a reflection of beauty for modern times but also of the endless possibilities of today.
Image Courtesy of Hodakova.
HODAKOVA
The Hodakova form is the antagonist of the ideal form. It’s a shape that’s repeated until it’s imperfectly yours. It’s a signature that embraces your unmistakable self. The Hodakova form is a silent homage to mistakes, stains, and doing things the other way around. That proves the SS24 collection: a collection, that seems to take place in the grey everyday life of an office. But by doing things differently and in an unexpected way, the shapes become unique, imperfect, confusing, and inspiring. Bras are sewn together to tops and skirts, belts are woven together to dresses or hundreds of regular ballpoint pens joined together to a futuristic evening gown. Additionally, the models wear tights, pointy shoes, geeky reading glasses, and sleek hair.
Photography by Filippo Fior. Image Courtesy of Vogue Runway.
Y/PROJECT
Y/Project is definitely a highlight of Paris Fashion Week right now. As usual, Glenn Martens impresses with refreshing and non-obvious shapes, with fabrics that are dyed in vibrant colors such as lavender, yellow, acid, and dark wine red. There are logo tees, work boots, evening dresses, metal foil, and lace. There is a coat that reminds of the cowl of a monk, a silver snake collier, big hoods, prints in the shape of an hourglass or a butterfly, and as the base of everything – denim, of course. Inspiration for the collection was the architecture of Martens’ hometown Burges in Belgium.
Photography by Luca Tombolini. Image Courtesy of Alainpaul.
ALAINPAUL
“La Première” is, just like the name aready says, the debut collection of Alainpaul. The topic is a celebration of discipline and craftsmanship through elements of classical ballet. The show was staged into three acts, the three principles of ballet central: arrival, rehearsal, and premiere. The moulded ankle boots and sling-back shoes mirror the toe of ballet slippers and create the illusion of the foot bone deformation familiar to dancers. At the same time, Paul shows tailored jackets and pencil skirts on the runway – the first patterns a designer in training has to learn. It’s the beginning of craftmanship and technique before deconstructing and abstracting it. Overall, it’s a successful study of constructions to embrace the human anatomy, body language, and self-expression.
Photography by Isidore Montag. Image Courtesy of Vogue Runway.
VAQUERA
A golden fishnet suit, underwear as decoration, bleached denim, painted leather, and a huge flower choker that’s not only worn on the neck but also on the arm or the leg? That’s the new collection of Vaquera – the brand for bold and flashing Fashion Stories. This season, the audience at the Vaquera SS24 Show was standing around the runway and therefore creating the feeling of a paparazzi moment outside of the entrance of an exclusive nightclub.
Photography by Daniel Roché. Image Courtesy of Kasia Kucharska.
KASIA KUCHARSKA
Although Kasia Kucharska didn’t show her new SS24 collection on the Runway, her showroom in the streets of Paris was still a highlight of this season’s Fashion Week: Eternal vibes, colorful installations and in the centre of attention the new pieces of the berlin-based designer. Kucharska is known for her distinctive 3-dimensional flower fabrics. Now, her new collection is an advancement of her craftsmanship and loses the flower visuals. Instead, the 3D designs transformed into organic shapes that follow the flow of the human body. Additionally, Kucharska included other fabrics and designs such as capes, tops, latex skirts, mesh suits and lace veils for the first time in her career. The collection was staged through an amazingly weird, yet beautiful shooting, photographed by Daniel Roché and styled by Daliah Spiegel.
Photography by Pascal Gambarte. Image Courtesy of All-In.
ALL-IN
Allina…the meteoric rise and fall of a pop princess. This is the story of the new collection of All-In, a multidisciplinary design studio, brand, and magazine that was founded by Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø. For the presentation of their SS24 collection, All-In chose a dark nightclub as location. The models embodied the fictional popstar Allina and sang her beautiful but sad story – the story of a fallen angel, while the thrown roses of her fans lay on the catwalk. The designs of the collection focused on deconstruction and draping so that they would appear to fall apart. Sequins, latex, crystals, and short silhouettes. Additionally, All-In played with elements of an old lady such as nightgowns, fake pearls, and hair curlers. The press text for the collection was written like the letter of an adoring fan.
Image Courtesy of Vogue Runway.
VALENTINO
The Valentino SS24 was all about freedom for women. The freedom of being who they are. The freedom of exposing the body without being shamed, without losing the right to say no. To underline this statement, the runway was decorated with classical nude sculptures. In the center, FKA Twigs and her dancers performed a strong and athletic show. The collection included a variety of styles, moods, and cultures. There were suits, long skirts, silk, and cut-out embroidery. The palette was white, silver, gold, and wine red and let the models become goddesses of strength, vulnerability, and Womanhood. Pierpaolo Piccioli created a collection that resembles the Valentino we already know but also has a new modern vibe, that isn’t about being sexy for someone else.
Photography by Filippo Fior. Image Courtesy of Vogue Runway.
ISABEL MARANT
Isabel Marant is a brand of contrasts yet of repetitive elements. The new collection was once again shown in the Palais Royal – a mystic and elegant place that has a very personal meaning for the designer because Marant’s mother used to live around the corner. But other than in her previous collections, the designer focused on a lighter atmosphere and style: more seductive, more pure. The fabrics were fluid and reduced from layering. The models wore lingerie, parkas, a short perfectly tailored leather jacket, and a lot of geometric patterns. To ground and the lightness of the looks, Marant included heavy clogs. Again, a clash of aesthetics.
Photography by Filippo Fior. Image Courtesy of Vogue Runway.
DURAN LANTINK
Until this season’s Paris Fashion Week, Duran Lantink was known for his sustainable designs. Now he is trying to find his own handwriting by experimenting with fabrics and shapes. Therefore, the Dutch designer excites us with puffed and round clothing in every possible way: cropped tops, blouses, jackets – even the underwear was puffed. The shapes were organic, with cut-outs, and simple colors, and reminded of the lifejackets, Lantink showed in his previous collection. One highlight was the “Speedo-Jeans”, a refreshing weird design, that questions the relationship between society and traditional clothing.