“It ain’t broke, don’t fix it if” – advice that could well have been in the back of Sissi Goetze’s mind as she prepared for her A/W 13 menswear collection for Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. The Berlin designer, who specialised in menswear at London’s Central Saint Martin’s College, is known for her pure use of colour, simple lines, refined cuts and the overlapping of materials. It’s her look and it works, so why should she change it?
Colour-scheme wise it was all about blue (mostly navy with one attention-grabbing baby blue shirt and suit combo) and charcoal grey. Two silky, delicate maroon shirts give the subdued color scheme a quick burst of energy.
The rather British working man portrayal continues this season with more variations of the bomber jacket: sleeveless silk bombers overly scrunched up at the sleeves and waist add volume to the rather tight silhouettes. Minimal, single coloured pilot caps adorning the mens’ heads add a playful element to the austere, “buttoned-up” attitude of the collection.
Sissi Goetze’s trademark of overlapping fabrics was present in various forms: on backs of jackets, on the sleeves of blazers and on the legs of pants. It adds a strict structure to her garments while allowing her to play with silhouettes making them looser or tighter. A trademark look open to many variations.