SLEEK’s London Fashion Week Review

CONNER IVES

A cracking voiceover starts to morph into club-like music, the lights go up and down and soon after the first model appears. It’s Conner Ives catwalk debut, “Hudson River School”, a concept celebrating his New York roots. Each look has been inspired by a specific pop-cultural trend or icon, tied into his aesthetic. Reminiscent of a modern-day Woodstock festival, the models are clothed in frills, headscarves as tops, low-rise jeans, and butterflies instead of flowers in their hair.

One of the major inspirations for the show was the designer’s favourite fashion documentary “Unzipped”, which follows the redemption story of Isaac Mizrahi, he says. What stuck with him, was the ending, when he said, “even if this will be a disaster, it was worth it”. The designer carries the same sentiment of his show.

S.S DALEY

It is the idea of upstairs and downstairs, the idea of two worlds co-existing within a house, that inspired the designer, he tells us. He took inspiration from bygone periods of English history and tradition, rewriting the tragedies with a modern twist. In the scene, queer models kiss, “a beautiful detail that would have not been possible back then”, he says.

When Kate Bush’s voice arises from the void, the models dance hand-in-hand at the scene and the lights go up. The play may be over, but the eyes stay full of tears.

ROBYN LYNCH

A distorted voice memo slowly turns into the musical background of a rave scene. When the lights go up and down, a drumming sound arises and the first model walks down the catwalk. Robyn Lynch’s FW22 catwalk show is a juxtaposition of upcycled materials, communicating through the means of colour and strong practical silhouettes. Since her Fashion East days, the Irish designer focussed on tying colour in as a philosophy, it helps her communicate the message, she says. The collection is inspired by the brand’s ethos to upcycle, this time they deconstructed vintage Columbia jackets into their signature silhouette. The collection is a visual manifesto of bold colours, trendsetting for this season.

YUHAN WANG

A symphony of violins cracks its way through the catwalk speakers, transforming the location into an opera-like setting. The opening look impresses with a delicate suit, striking with a spiderweb-esque print all over it. Reoccurring materials throughout the show are lace, feathers and the blend of recency influences juxtaposed with modern opulence. Dresses so delicate like precious china meet leather suits with corset strings, symbolising a new dynamic and age of power. The secret shining star is the designer’s cat, appearing on several prints and walking with one model, well behaved, of course.

SIMONE ROCHA

Gathered her spectators at the medieval hall, situated in the city of London, Simone Rocha invited her guests to experience the Irish fairy tale “Woman as a Swan”. The inspiration of the fairy tale is rooted in one of Rocha’s core inspirations, Irish mythology. In the story, four children turn into swans – an animal striking with elegance, yet an impulsive and dangerous aura. With her dreamy silhouettes, she juxtaposes the grotesque and the beauty of fairytales into the clothing. Unlike her last collection, Rocha opens with the dark side symbolised by jet black coats and dresses, morphing slowly into a lighter direction in look 4 indicated by the use of black and white in a leather jacket. Simone Rocha’s new collection is a fairy tale told in bold silhouettes and a lot of layering, visually telling the layers of her inspiration, setting the trends for the upcoming season.

MOLLY GODDARD

A love letter to west London in the 1980s. Sourcing inspiration from her mother’s best friend, who was a figure in the Portobello social scene, the designer decided to dedicate this visual manifesto to her. “I would describe her as a cross between Marilyn Monroe and Mick Jones – big bleached blonde hair with a flower in it, red lipstick, dressed in a 50s dress with army jacket and trainers”, she says. Combining fishtail taffeta dresses with baggy men’s jumpers and trainers, the silhouette is like a breath of fresh air, more relaxed. The classic Molly Goddard tulle is contrasted with cotton, symbolising the lifelines of Portobello Market back in the day. It is almost like observing the characters who shop at the iconic market, everything beautifully curated and juxtaposed. Each garment looks like a manifesto of its own, radiating in uniqueness.

AHLUWALIA

From Bollywood to Nollywood, this Alhuwhalia collection is a celebration of the designer’s rich heritage. It is a pure love letter to the films that informed and enriched her youth. A tribute to colour, bold shapes and tailoring – a key trend spotted in London.

NENSI DOJAKA

From body criticism to body inclusivity, Nensi Dojaka showed everyone a new, more diverse side of her brand. Being formerly criticised for their lack of body diversity, the designer took a step ahead and broadened her runway sizes from sample size to maternity as seen on Model Maggie Maurer.

REJINA PYO

Inspired by a 1920’s supper club article, the designer wanted to create clothing that does not only look astonishing but also brings back the dinner table chic. Key colours were green and lilac, colours previously seen at the Robyn Lynch and Supriya Lele show.

SUPRIYA LELE

Tights over heels, bold colours and Victoria Beckham in the front row – the impressions of Supriya Lele’s NewGen show capture a rising star. A clash of silhouettes, with carefully draped tops around the torso to broad wardrobe-like coats, this show elevated the versatility of the creator.

HARRIS REED

Central Saint Martins alumnus and gender-fluid starlet Harris Reed did not disappoint with his sophomore collection “60 years a queen”. Paying tribute to Queen Victoria’s service, Harris created an intimate setting, showcasing his signature silhouettes, worn by any gender. Flares, big sleeves and his iconic hats were the main characters of the show. Musically supported by Sam Smith, Harris Reed’s fashion week opening was a match made in heaven.

KWOK

Inviting his guests to the Old Truman Brewery in East London, the Hong Kong designer is providing a futuristic setting for his collection. A tribute to the future and the metaverse symbolised by closing the show with a digital instead of a physical look.

HALPERN

For their collection, the American designer Halpern transformed a sports centre in Brixton into the showcase location of his FW22 collection. A dash of kitsch married to modern silhouettes and a strong colour scheme paint the message of his new collection. A tribute to the roaring times in front of us with clear flapper girl references.

Eftychia

A strong tailored look- womenswear crossover to traditional menswear. Eftychia’s models champion the fluid suit look, disrupting power structures in a world full of binaries. Setting trends for the upcoming season by combining black with brown, the brand is breaking unwritten rules by creating a new power system.