SLEEK: Irina, you founded your label DZHUS in 2010. In the text to your presentation in Berlin on January 18 2023, you wrote that Ukrainian women have divided their lives into “before” and “after” since the beginning of the war. What does that mean for you?
Irina Dzhus: For me, my war trauma has resulted in the ‘and how does that help Ukraine?’ approach to everything I’m coming up with or consuming. Equally, I am a very rational person which has helped me to save my creative potential despite the overwhelming desperation. I realised very clearly that our brand, and the innovations it brings into the industry, is very unique. Having recovered from the initial shock, I feel even more motivation to come up with new ideas and fulfil them in a way that not only enriches the industry but also supports the people of my country.
S: Can you describe how you then transferred this perception to your work?
ID: Through my allegoric creations, I aim to draw the world’s attention to the tragic events of the war, while celebrating the unbreakable power of my people. Since the invasion began, Ukrainian designers have joined forces in a highly patriotic artistic movement to raise awareness of the situation on the international scale. I’m no exception. We’ve taken part in numerous fashion initiatives worldwide with the aim of supporting Ukraine, most of which have gathered immense media impact. Alongside this, we have been donating 30 percent of our profit to Ukrainian animal rights organisations as well as those in support of our servicemen.
While support of the army is more than understandable, I find it important to highlight how catastrophic the situation is with abandoned animals and wildlife. Due to Russia’s constant aggression, not only are our people facing terror, but our whole ecosystem is too. While I could discuss this at length, I’ll make it short. Huge territories containing cities as well as wildlife habitats have been burnt to the ground which will bring catastrophic consequences one cannot imagine.
Photography by Finnegan Godenschweger.
S: Is your work also your way of processing what happened and making it visible?
ID: Absolutely. I’m opting for symbolism to transmit my perception of the tragedy of war itself and my personal experience. For example, many of our AW23 designs are conceived around pockets and bags, as an allegory for the evacuation process millions of Ukrainians went through, having taken only the belongings they could carry. Some of our outfits offer a transformation from an exaggeratedly utilitarian unisex silhouette into a fragile feminine look and vice versa, as an allusion to the inevitable change of a personality under the influence of force majeure circumstances, often demanding heartbreaking decisions. A key piece from this collection is a bulletproof-vest inspired overall which turns into a colossal coat with a sheer hood, referring to an angel protector of our unbreakable nation.
S: Let me go back to your AW23 presentation for a moment. Not only were you yourself visible as a designer, making the transformations of your designs in front of everyone, but there was also a siren sound in the room that was audible from the beginning. Do you think that bringing such elements together is necessary in communicating an aspect of what cannot be imagined in this space?
ID: I don’t believe that people who haven’t faced war events are capable of feeling what it is really like. On the other hand, I don’t think they should. Traumatising more people wouldn’t lead to any positive results, whereas translating the whole idea of the war reality through artistic concepts is likely to generate a lot of thoughts. Such thoughts can transform into suggestions, becoming helpful in one way or another.
S: How did you feel during the presentation?
ID: During a show, I’m always experiencing a kind of catharsis. I feel a lack of confidence when it comes to taking actions in front of the audience. At the same time, it feels so important to be able to provide the beholders with an unusual experience – some even say it’s spiritual – and deliver a deeper message. Despite my anxiety about how the show will go, when I stand on the catwalk and transform my models one after the other I feel so in the moment. The process is so magnetic that I manage to focus entirely on my movements, changing the outfits’ function and style completely.
S: You said the women who survived are more forward-looking than before. What do you base that on?
ID: Upon my evacuation, I began thinking of all the people who were also forced to migrate. But unlike me, they’ve lost their jobs, their connections, close contact with their families – all the factors defining their identity – and have consequently ended up feeling completely disoriented. With that thought, I’ve been very open to supportive initiatives that resonated with my values. I’ve worked on multiple workshops for refugees, dedicated to style.
Having worked as a stylist for 16 years now, the least I could do is meet those women and give some professional tips that may help them to reconnect with their identity and womanhood. Shifting the focus from reality war to the fantasy of fashion, becomes an important tool in dealing with the psychological impact. In some cases, those master classes were accompanied with a ‘free shop’, with fashion goods donated by the locals.
I had expected that ‘refocusing’ wouldn’t be an easy task, as many suffered from severe damages on the emotional level. What I hadn’t expected, however, was the fact that the visitors’ favourite part of the meetings would be the moments where they could share their thoughts. They were able to open up about their feelings and share how their sense of self has changed in the circumstances of the war. Having survived, most have learned to appreciate every new day and the opportunities it can provide. They’ve become much more decisive about expressing their personality and achieving what they’d always wanted but had been hesitating to even try. This applies to me personally too.
S: In terms of your designs, I felt like they have become the blueprint for what and how much we really need. This utilitarian approach stretches beyond sustainability. Is it also a reflection of your experience?
ID: Interestingly enough, I wore the same transformer trousers in the basement where I was hiding from the attacks in the first days of the invasion even when I managed to flee. I wore them to DZHUS’ events in Paris and Berlin. This proves the multipurpose and enriched utilitarian components of our pieces.
S: And at the same time, your designs are poetic, dignified, delicate and protective. How important is communication through clothing to you?
ID: I create for people who treat clothing as a material embodiment of their distinctive inner world. Finding a perfect shell for their individuality, they don’t aim to hide themselves from the surrounding ambient but to enter it as the truth and advanced version of themselves. Every person who wears DZHUS is one of a kind. Our customers are creative, intelligent, independently thinking and open-minded, successful in their own way of self expression. They’ve learnt their own personality very well and it’s very important for them to find clothing that will implement their vision and transmit it to others. As for me, when I wear my creations, I’m much more myself than without them. It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say DZHUS pieces replace introductions when you meet people. I believe that both the wearer and the dress change each other while interacting and merging into a single new existence.
I love creating for strong minded individuals who feel natural in the intense rhythm of today’s world. Circumstances and priorities change all the time and so, in order to survive, we need to be well prepared. Transformer clothing and accessories broaden the range of styling options significantly, leaving the wardrobe technically minimal. Even within one day, our customers can perform a metamorphosis of their look several times, adapting it to different purposes, conditions and states of mind.
S: Your colour palette is striking. How do the nuances between minimalist shades frame you?
ID: Our palette is very reserved, varying from monochrome to nude and earthy shades. Such a chromatic limitation helps accentuate the structure, which is at the core of our designs.
S: What drives you?
ID: Besides my aspiration to support Ukraine through my creativity, I also feel it as my mission to popularise the cruelty free ideology that DZHUS communicates through its products. By presenting our animal friendly garments to the audience, we stress the necessity of being humane and future oriented in the modern reality. By producing ethical and sustainable fashion products, I aspire to prove that it is possible to look individualistic and avant-garde while still remaining in peace and harmony with nature.
S: Your work as a designer is for me emblematic of an interface between fashion, art and politics. When you communicate about war in your own work, do you speak from personal experience?
ID: I was lucky enough to have escaped from the war at its very beginning and find my refuge in the EU. Now, I work between Warsaw, Paris and Berlin with frequent projects in Milan and Brussels. Speaking about DZHUS as a brand, it will always remain Ukrainian at its core which also means being very cosmopolitan – just like myself. Since I recovered from the first shock, I’ve been experiencing a dichotomy. On one hand, it seems wrong to focus on fashion when our countrymen are dying from non stop brutal attacks and conflict. On the other hand however, design is a powerful tool for the communication of important ideas to the worldwide community. In my opinion, the mission of every Ukrainian artist now is to draw attention to the tragedy of our nation via their distinctive work.
S: Do you see this as an opportunity to be much more trusting and supportive in the future?
ID: Participation in Berlin Fashion Week was a long dreamed opportunity for me, to showcase DZHUS products to a wide range of industry professionals and find potential collaborators among the audience. I believe the Fashion Week will provide DZHUS with a completely new direction for business and creative development, as we aim at broadening our representation on the European market.
For us, trust and patience are priceless. Only because of the immense support of our network are we able to move on. Along with people’s astonishing solidarity, we’ve been receiving immense support from international organisations and programmes: fashion weeks, contests, grants for small businesses and other initiatives. Throughout the year, DZHUS has taken part in Berlin Fashion Week and Vegan Fashion Week in Los Angeles; activities during Paris and Milan Fashion; participated in more than 10 charity pop-up events worldwide. I encourage those who are wondering how to help the Ukrainian fashion industry to continue buying from independent brands like us. While it may be a longer wait compared to on demand fashion, the result will be more meaningful than one could imagine.
As featured in SLEEK 76 FREEDOM. Available in print and digital here.