Matias wears JUMPER T/Sehne TROUSERS Magliano SHOES Crocs.
SLEEK: I once read that you’re only a photographer if you take pictures outside of your commercial work. How does photography find its way into your day-to-day life?
Matias Alfonzo: I see two different sides to photography. Of course there’s the commercial side, but then there’s this whole other area of exploration and conceptualisation. With fashion, there’s a real interchangeability between these two variables which is what makes it so exciting. In my day-to-day life, I often carry a pocket camera to capture those spontaneous moments of inspiration, moments that are so crucial to the development of ideas. But more than anything, being a photographer comes through in my approach to life, in my mentality and my attitude. I am constantly perceiving the world around me as a playground for creativity.
S: How does it feel for you today to look back on your professional journey?
MA: It’s really kind of crazy! When I finished school, I knew I wanted to pursue something in the visual arts but I wasn’t really sure where to start. For a long time, I wanted to study marine biology – something I would still really love to do – but I had this burning desire to be creative. In my second year of studying visual arts, I was approached by my first client and I continued to work with them every season up until I moved from Argentina to Berlin around four years ago. That’s when I thought, you know, this could actually work. Coming from an underprivileged background in Argentina, being a photographer working in Europe felt like it could only be a dream. But now, I’m working on big sets and producing work that I love in Berlin. I sometimes have surreal moments where I think “Wow, I can’t believe I dreamt about this and now it’s my reality.” I feel very grateful.
S: What are some challenges that have shaped you?
MA: Growing up in Argentina in a working-class family, a camera was a completely inaccessible luxury. I went through the entirety of my studies without a camera, borrowing friends’ or using the ones offered by the university instead. Whenever I had the chance to use a camera, it was a sacred opportunity: one that I had to make worthwhile. This experience shaped my approach to creating, it taught me to refine and pursue my vision.
Image Courtesy of Matias Alfonzo.
S: Has that experience also informed the creation of your images?
MA: Definitely. Being in situations during my career where I’ve had to be innovative has really taught me the value of understanding the whys, the whats and the hows of creating. Equally, moving from Argentina to Berlin and having a kind of distance from my homeland has sparked a new sense of connection to my roots. I feel a desire to create work inspired by my culture, my heritage and my family.
S: I can already sense the answer to this next question, but do you consider yourself ambitious?
MA: For sure. I’ve always had high hopes for myself. Reflecting on my progress only makes me only want to push further. The seed was planted some time ago, but I’m now starting to see beautiful flowers blossom and I only want more.
S: In regards to your photographic style, your use of colour stands out very clearly. What does colour and colour conception mean to you?
MA: Colour is a huge part of a photographer’s creative identity. Colour is everything; it’s the greatest tool we have. Over time, I have created my own personal library of colours that I can always refer to when it comes to grading. Through a considered use of a particular colour, you are able to have a cohesive style across different projects. It’s sort of like how a painter works: they use certain shades and tones throughout their work to develop a style. With photography, colour brings a sense of identity that lives beyond the image.
S: The nature of your photography challenges us to look deeper. Is this intentional or coincidental?
MA: I always want my work to hold a feeling of intrigue. I try to move away from the conventional narrative of what fashion photography should be. Instead, I aim to be a little more conceptual and thoughtful in my process. I’m also obsessed with the title that is attached to a project, since it has the ability to elevate it.
LEFT Matias wears SHIRT AND SHORTS Miu Miu BOOTS Prada RIGHT Matias wears JACKET Talent's Own TANK TOP Schiesser TROUSERS Dior Men SHOES Camper x Ottolinger.
S: For our studio visit you have chosen five works. Why these?
MA: Among this small selection, I wanted to make sure I had pieces that capture the nuances of my work. Firstly, I chose images that each represent a different talent – diverse casting is always very important for me. Then, there’s the setting. Some were shot in a clean white studio and others in colour-intensive outdoor settings. I also made the decision to bring together images from the past few months as well as the past few years, to offer a diverse understanding of my visual identity.
S: Let’s take a look at what many people don’t know so well. After the shooting, comes not only the post-production but also the printing. You chose WhiteWall as your photo lab. What was it about WhiteWall that convinced you?
MA: I chose to work with WhiteWall due to their range of paper sizes. Rather than working to a strict sizing standard, they work to the exact measurements you require which is super important for photographers and artists. This freedom opens the door entirely to creativity, while ensuring that you’re getting gallery quality prints from a professional laboratory.
S: Is it the right printing and framing that makes the whole work?
MA: If you’re going to print an artwork, a certain degree of expertise and care needs to go into it – another reason why I chose WhiteWall. Framing is also super important and for me it was very convenient that they offered framing as well as printing. Again, they have a pretty wide selection: you can go for coloured, metal or even mirrored framing. It allows you to see how different types of framing can alter an image.
S: How can the printed form elevate an image?
MA: Seeing an image in the physical space is a completely different experience from seeing an image on your phone. Printing allows you to bring your imagery into the physical, where you can move and play with its perspectives. Through this, a whole new connection to the image is created.
S: Where is your journey going? What are you striving for?
MA: As always, I have a lot on my mind for what’s next. Working in fashion really allows you to explore a number of different subjects and ideas; I have a huge list of magazines that I would love to shoot for. I’m currently focussing on developing two separate concepts, one for a book and another for an exhibition. Soon, I’ll be going to my homeland of Argentina for the first time in four years. I’m excited to go back and see my family, to share my stories with them. I’m planning a big project out there which I think will take me a couple of years but it is something I’ve always wanted to do. There are some incredibly beautiful places in Argentina and I plan to use my camera as a vessel to connect deeper with my roots.
As featured in SLEEK 74 – IDENTITY. Available in print and digital here.