Studio Visit: Matino Morningwear – A New Dawn

When the sun rises and the birds sing their beautiful songs, we get up. But before we rush into the madness of daily life, it’s always important to take some time for yourself. Following this ethos, the Berlin-based designer Marie Freise has created her label, Matino, a slow fashion brand, created out of self-love and the need to celebrate good quality garments. We visited her studio in Berlin.

SLEEK: Let’s start at the beginning. How did you get where you are today? 

Marie Freise: I was born and bred here in Berlin. Both my parents are artists, so I was surrounded by art since I was a little child. I was born in the Eighties and by that time, the art scene in West Berlin, which my parents were part of, was burgeoning. Of course, this upbringing has influenced me, I’d say. When I finished high school, I started an apprenticeship at a tailor. I also started working for the theatre as an assistant in the costume department. There, I learnt a lot: I saw a lot of the manufacturing process, especially how slowly clothes can be made. After that, I went to university to study fashion. I made the conscious choice not to work in the industry since it did not feel right to me. What I loved was working at the theatre, where I was able to create pieces independent of trends and sales margins. At the theatre, everyone from the designer to the shoemaker works together in a very close-knit team, which allowed me to see all the different processes first-hand. I learnt a lot there, I loved it, but due to the time intensity, I left after two years. I have always drawn, painted or sewn. And two years ago, I had a light-bulb moment which led me to creating my label Matino. I wanted a set of beautiful pyjamas that united high quality materials, contemporary design and the craftsmanship expertise of English tailoring. Since I draw a lot, I started painting on fabrics, and six months ago I moved into my studio, located ine Maybachufer in Berlin. Situated in a community full of artists, I met Jack Sachs [a British 3D animator and illustrator], who I ended up collaborating with on two pyjama designs.

S: That is a wonderful story. Staring at the core of your label, why pyjamas? Usually a pyjama is a piece of clothing that gets the least attention, since no one else sees it. What was the thought behind the pyjama?

M: My initial idea was to create a versatile pyjama, a piece of clothing that you could also wear during the day. That’s why I call my label morning wear instead of nightwear. In my case, I sleep in simple clothing, usually just a t-shirt, and when I get up in the morning, I put on a nice set of pyjamas. I wear them for breakfast, or when I am working from home. I also love wearing the pieces out, whether as a set or on its own. I want the wearer to be really comfortable in the clothes. Personally, I love the concept of ‘co-ords’ [an outfit made from matching colours and/or prints], you put them on, and you instantly feel dressed. The thought behind is to put this set on for oneself and no one else, as a means of self-care or self-respect. It is a moment that only belongs to oneself. 

S: As I understand it now, the product is a labour of love, worshipping the act of self-love?

M: Exactly.

S: What were the values – and the vision – behind your label?

M: There are two things. Firstly, the self-love and self-worth value is based on my own experiences. Over the years, I realised the importance of getting dressed for oneself, instead of anyone else. To me, this is very important for the feeling of self-worth and self-esteem. This is not only in terms of clothing, but in generally making an effort for oneself, whether that is setting a table nicely or creating routines. During the pandemic, the boundaries between work and life have continued to blur into one another, so making your space nice for yourself has become increasingly important. It is a celebration of liveliness, even though we are confined inside. Secondly, I have to reference my upbringing. I am eternally grateful for how my parents have influenced me and brought me up. Some children or teenagers want to be entirely different from their parents, but I never felt that way. I have been positively influenced by them, especially by my mother, who dressed in a wild, independent and unapologetic way. She stands out of the crowd. She always wore her pyjama pants out and exclusively shopped second-hand clothing. Both my parents lived the cliché artists’ life, never particularly chic, always a little improvised. The independent sense of life, which they gave me, is part of my identity. 

S: You are focused on quality over quantity. Do you ever question how many products we really need? And what is your approach to sustainability?

M: It is a very big topic. When I studied fashion back in the day, I interned at a few places, which gave me insight into the industry. Having seen how some clothing is produced, I knew that with my brand, I wanted to manufacture in Europe. Currently, I tailor all my products here in Berlin. My fabrics are sourced from a family-run business in Austria. I paint them in my studio here, and they are also being printed in Germany. Fair working conditions are very important to me. I also use special stitching  techniques in order to make my clothing I create last longer. My wish is it to create a long-lasting product. 

S: When you start working on a collection, what is your creative process like?

M: I start very intuitively. I mostly use the same pattern, so that won’t change anytime soon. I’ve also developed some summer pieces, but for now, we’ll stick with one pair of pyjamas and one robe. When I begin a collection, I think of what I would like to wear and what message I would like to communicate. The patterns are a little oversized, since everything I do is genderfluid. When it comes to the colours, I also go very intuitively, I’d say. I love bold colours. I want to communicate a positive, Italian-flair feeling. 

S: Colour seems to express a way of life for you.

M: Yes, exactly. 

S: When you collaborate with someone, what is your criteria? Does their vision and the chemistry have to fit? 

M: Both matter a lot. I am very easy to enthuse. When someone captivates me, I see them in a very positive light. With Jack Sachs, the pieces just fell into place, and it was a very good fit. He’s got something beautiful, almost naïve in his art. You can see his creation process is very detailed. When I paint stripes, you can see the brushstrokes; when he prints, every print is one of a kind. I gave him a lot of creative freedom, which made collaborating even more fun. 

S: That sounds lovely. You are a new brand. Where do you see yourself in the slow fashion movement?

M: I think that sustainability, especially within fashion, will be one of the biggest topics in the next few years. To me, the way forward is to move away from fast fashion and curate a collection of pieces you really love. Our sets are unisex, so you could potentially share it with a flatmate, friend or partner. I don’t pre-produce a lot, the tailor I work with is based around the corner, so we have the luxury to produce on demand. In my studio, I have a selection of 30 pieces, ready to be tried on by customers. The production on-demand model allows me not to create excess stock, which is great for the environment. This allows me to be a part of the fashion industry without giving up my own values.

S: Did your time at the theatre inspire your approach to sustainability? In costume design you create ‘visions’, did that inspire you?

M: Absolutely. At the theatre I learnt a lot about the supply chain. It was also very interesting to be a part of the visual creation of a character. This has definitely inspired me to create my own.