Studio Visit: Merz B. Schwanen

Merz b. Schwanen is a textile manufacturer that produces original, “simply good” basics in Germany and Portugal. Its unique fabrics – with very little tension and an incredibly vintage touch and look – are made on rare 100-year-old loopwheelers (circular knitting machines) located in the Swabian Alps in southwestern Germany. The brand is proud that it’s the only company that still manufactures in this authentic and traditional manner. Furthermore, the brand embraces a sustainable and environmentally friendly concept, honest manufacturing and selected, high-quality materials. SLEEK visits creative directors of Merz b. Schwanen Gitta and Peter Plotnicki to talk about how they bring tradition together with the contemporary.

SLEEK: In 2011, you re-established the brand. How did this opportunity come about? It’s not something that happens every day… 

Gitta: It was quite organic. We came across this old henley at Berlin’s Mauerpark flea market. It had these old buttons and such a unique woven label, the kind that you just don’t see any more. We found out that the henley was made in a factory in the Swabian Alps that had since folded. So, Peter decided to travel to the factory there to find out how it was made. He discovered these old loopwheel machines that were covered in dust, after being left unused for so long. When Peter proposed that we revive the machines, the guy who owned them was intrigued by the idea. We were really driven by a desire to make clothing in our homeland, to somehow connect to our past. The project began to raise dust in the Swabian Alps – Balthasar Merz’s descendants, in particular, were so excited by the entrepreneurial vision that they offered us their old brand name, Merz b. Schwanen.

S: Merz b. Schwanen was founded in 1911. What makes working with such a history so appealing? 

G: Both Peter and I fell completely in love with the idea of producing garments the way people did a hundred years ago. Making fabrics on these old machines is a really special thing. It’s very slow and sustainable as it doesn’t require tons of energy. With this old technology that has aged over the years, the output is so unique that the clothes acquire a kind of soul. I believe that clothes need souls and a history to create stories. Somehow, this creates a special relationship between the garment and the wearer. 

Peter: The idea of making garments with these old loopwheelers was not only about the uniqueness of the production, but also about creating staple pieces that don’t need to be refreshed or changed to fit the season. Unlike many other brands, we have no interest in constantly creating new lines. Instead, we prefer to produce a selection of well-made, timeless pieces with care and longevity in mind. 

S: On the one hand, you’re working with traditions, but on the other you’re operating within the contemporary fashion landscape. How do you go about combining both and making your garments desirable? 

G: I feel so grateful that there is such a rich history behind the work we do. We often receive emails from the descendants of the original company, sharing how happy they are that we were able to revive the brand. It all feels very special. And so, it was naturally very important for us to acknowledge the history of Merz b. Schwanen in a way that appeals to the modern consumer. 

S: Part of your concept is to make the history of Merz b. Schwanen quite transparent. Why do you think such approaches bring us closer to products? 

G: I think the reality of the fashion industry is much more impactful when you see it. As soon as I see an image of someone sewing with their hands, I’m reminded of how much work and care goes into making just one garment. Yet, so many garment workers in the industry are not treated correctly. At Merz b. Schwanen, we believe it’s essential that we offer our customers the opportunity to visit our factories, to see the process for themselves and to speak to our workers. 

P: By being so transparent about our approach, we’re able to build more honest and meaningful relationships with consumers. We’re encouraging them to ask questions about where their clothing has come from and who has made it. 

S: What excites you about working with a fundamentally sustainable approach? 

P: When we started 11 years ago, sustainability was not really a big topic. Some people talked about it, but it was not that significant like it is today. You know, sustainability is a kind of buzzword now. Back then, we were working in a naturally sustainable way, even if it wasn’t a conscious decision. Our entire supply chain was considered, from the materials used to the production methods chosen. Sustainability has always come quite naturally to us and so I can’t really imagine working any other way. 

G: We’ve both eaten organically for more than 20 years, so of course we want our clothes to be organic too. We want clothing that feels good on our skin, clothing that isn’t full of chemicals and plastics. At the same time, is it worth having an organic T-shirt if you only wear it once and then throw it away? For us, sustainability is also about caring for your garments, building relationships with your clothing in a way that saves resources and values labour. 

S: Does the spirit of discovery and curiosity play a big role? 

G: Curiosity and discovery are the main components of our work. It began from a curiosity back in the flea market and now that same curiosity manifests itself in new ways. We enjoy seeing the world around us and being inspired by the simplest of things. A big part of our approach is about intuition, about feeling and emotion. 

S: Do you have any valuable tips on how to care for the pieces? 

G: The most important thing about looking after any piece of clothing is the washing instructions. Always keep in mind what the material requires. Putting time into learning about what types of detergent and machine setting suit each piece contributes to their longevity, while also building on the relationship between garment and wearer. 

P: It’s important for us to communicate what materials we use and how we would advise caring for them. We’re already inviting our customers into our Berlin store, where they can ask questions about caring for our pieces. For example, we recently had an event at the store centred around how to care for knitwear made of wool. Again, it’s about transparency. Even in our newsletters, we’re always adding additional information about the material’s care instructions to elevate the souls of our pieces.

S: Is there a very special story related to your products that you just can’t forget?

P: We’ve been collaborating with Junya Watanabe for the past six years and he personally came to visit our factory one time. He was totally impressed. He was sitting on the floor, touching the fabrics, talking to our workers. It was really incredible. 

S: What are you working on right now? 

G: We’re in the process of creating an entirely natural collection with a focus on natural dyeing techniques. It’s great to have an organic cotton T-shirt, but if it ends up being dyed in an industrial way, then it kind of takes away from its natural components. We’re working with food waste, such as blueberries and onion skins, to see what kinds of colours we can produce. With this project, we’re really pushing the idea of having an entirely natural thing on your body. We’re exploring how we can bring this natural process to an industrial level so that it can be carried through to our other lines. 

As featured in SLEEK 75 – HAPPINESS. Available in print and digital here.