Denim flares and FAKA ignite Telfar’s rain-drenched helipad runway

Telfar SS19, photography by Mitchell Sams

New York’s fashion cognoscenti may be firmly focussed on Spring Summer right now, but as the clouds gathered over the East River yesterday, it seemed that the weather had other ideas. CFDA prize winner Telfar held its striking SS19 show on the puddle-drenched concrete of BLADE Lounge’s heliport, under drizzling skies. But even frightening Fahrenheit temperatures and constant rain couldn’t dampen the crowd’s spirits; hundreds of the city’s fashion forward braved the elements for a glimpse of the Telfar action, huddling under umbrellas and peeping through the wire mesh fence, like proud mums gathered to watch their kid’s first football game. New York Times style reporter Matthew Schneier was not disappointed, taking to Instagram to praise Telfar Clemens on yet another incendiary display. “You know Telfar was major because it gave me pneumonia and I’m still not mad.”

FAKA performing at Telfar SS19, photography by Mitchell Sams
Telfar SS19, photography by Mitchell Sams
If we’ve learnt anything from Telfar’s stellar track record, this was never going to be a run-of-the-mill runway. Clemens’ SS18 show unfolded against the NYC skyline, at an intimate private dinner party, where models, including Kelela and Dev Hynes, sauntered in draped in Telfar’s latest offerings, and sat down among the other guests to dine. Last season, the Liberian-American designer took NYFW as an excuse to assemble his squad of musically-inclined friends — such as R&B royalty, Ian Isiah — for an exclusive rendition of Grateful by Hezekiah Walker. Yesterday’s show had a lot to live up to, but its unorthodox aerial location, and stomping soundtrack, performed live by queer Johannesburg duo, FAKA (also known as Fela Gucci and Desire Marea — who have teamed up with the brand for recent events in London and Milan), made quite the scene.

Telfar SS19, photography by Mitchell Sams

The collection followed suit, continuing the Telfar tradition of crafting vanguard, unisex clothing that’s statement without being overstated. The SS19 offering saw an influx of cut-out elements — seemingly classic-cut shirts reveal exposed elbows, while DIY-style, ripped-denim riding chaps were cinched at the waist with signature belts bearing the Telfar emblem. Set against the brand’s enduring asymmetric basics, as well as boxy tailored jackets, high waisted trousers, with a distinctly ’70s flare, and Budweiser-emblazoned raglan tees, the collection proved a feat from start to finish. And next season’s colour according to Telfar? Yellow. Lots of yellow.