The young designers to know for New York Fashion Week Men’s

While New York Fashion Week Men’s was already looking sparse last season, this year the calendar has gotten even smaller. Moving away from the regular menswear schedule, which took place last month in Milan, London and Paris, NYFW Men’s has re-emerged a sort of prelude to the fuller schedule of women’s shows that will open later this week. As Alexander Wang is missing from this year’s menswear line-up the week is lacking in titans—but the good thing about the lack of heavy-hitters is that there are plenty of young brands that are not standing in any shadows. Here are some of the emerging labels we are looking at this February.

Ka Wa Key

Based in London, Kaw Wa Key Chow and Jarno Leppanen have moved their label the New York Men’s schedule from showing in Paris. The brand self-identifies as “twink” fashion saying in their Instagram bio that they “believe everyone can be a twink regardless of their age, gender and sexuality”.

Official Rebrand

Although Official Rebrand is showing on the menswear schedule, the label is strictly “gender free,” creating uncategorised clothing from found materials in a “rebranding” process. Head designer MI Leggett is uses painting drawing and alterations to create cheeky clothing like their tank that reads, “Angels have no gender but lots of sex.”

Nihl

Colorado-native Neil Patric Grotzinger, who presents a queer alternative to the suburban masculinity he grew up with, is the designer behind Nihl. The brand brings provocative cut-outs and body conscious silhouettes to menswear.

Kenneth Nicholson

Taking inspiration from his upbringing in Southern United States, Kenneth Nicholson creates collections that both embrace the heritage of menswear, but push its boundaries open with dramatic flared trousers, flowing tunics an liberal use of lace.

Todd Hessert

While Todd Hessert is another designer who frequently reaches for recycled materials in his eponymous label, his emphasis is technology. Last season, the designer featured tracksuits and sportswear with light up technology.