L-R: Vetements SS16, Rick Owens AW15, Hari Nef for & Other Stories
The year of 2015 will leave many lasting memories: some good like avocado toast being widely available, some even better like Trump’s presidential campaign. But how will it go down in the history of fashion? Will it be remembered for loose male genitalia on the catwalk, for top designers shunning major brands, or the subsequent shock appointments? With 2015’s end nearing, we’ve singled out the top five moments that made this year so unforgettable in the world of fashion.
Rick Owens, Menswear Fall Winter 2015 Collection, Fashion Show in Paris
1. Gender is so last year
At the very start of 2015, fashion provocateur Rick Owens sent down the runway semi-naked male models dangling their bits. With this gesture not only did the designer grab many a headline but also raised the question of gender equality, setting the tone for the whole year. Owens’ AW15 loose-penis collection demonstrated that male nudity is still very much a taboo, while switching the roles of male and female models on the catwalk. Month after month, more barriers in gender distinction were brought down. Major names such as Cavalli went mad for androgyny; retailers like Selfridges and thecorner.com launched their lines of agender clothing, while Hari Nef and other transgender models graced the campaigns of numerous brands including Telfar and Eckhaus Latta.
2. Gucci smashed it
Gucci has the full right to be called the brand of the moment – or even, the brand of the year. After the exit of former creative director, Tom Ford, in 2004 the Italian company seemed to have sunk into a prolonged depression. For the past decade Gucci had been trying to regain its identity, and yet kept either plunging into overt sexuality or retreating to nondescript designs. But in 2015 the winds changed for Gucci. They appointed underdog creative director, Alessandro Michele, who gave the brand a 1970s-inspired revamp. The winning result consists of looks that sit between hippy chic and the 21st century eclecticism, with a touch of androgyny – obvs.
Vetements showroom at PFW. Photography by Elodie Chapuis
3. Back to basics hit the runway
The most Googled fashion trend of 2014, normcore, might stay longer than previously thought. However, who definitely proved that it’s more than a fad was 2015’s breakthrough fashion collective, Vetements. Their aesthetic, which thrives on simplicity with a pinch of Margiela, spiced up with asymmetry or an unusual choice of fabrics, gained praise all around. Sportswear was another continuous feature in several collections. From established brands like Gucci to newcomers like Kanye West, trainers were a must-have.
Joni Mitchell for Saint Laurent, courtesy of Saint Laurent Paris
4. Age ain’t nothing but a number
Ageing is no longer a taboo. The ultimate style icon of the year was Iris Apfel, 93, whose eccentric personal taste makes her the absolute favourite among fashion editors. It was also refreshing to see advertising campaigns featuring women who are not in their 20s. Julia Roberts, 47, posed for the minimalistic Givenchy campaign; Hedi Slimane photographed the singer songwriter Joni Mitchell, 71, for Saint Laurent Paris; and writer and intellectual Joan Didion, 80, appeared in Céline adverts. And last but not least, photographer Charlie Engman copped plenty of kudos for his project in which he uses his mother as model in all sorts of settings. Representation in fashion has never been this democratic and as it seems, it is only the beginning.
5. Dramatic exits and appointments
What happened in Parisian Fashion this year was earth shattering: Balenciaga and Alexander Wang parted ways, Raf Simons unexpectedly left Dior, and Lanvin sacked Alber Elbaz. Raf Simons’ departure has been labelled the saddest fashion incident of 2015. However, it may turn out to be beneficial for fashion, given that it highlighted the industry’s unhealthy fast pace (one of the reasons for Simons waving goodbye). It is not clear who will replace him but the rumour has it that it might be Elbaz. Another unexpected move was the appointment of a young designer, Demna Gvasalia, 26, as Balenciaga’s creative director. Gvasalia, who’s also a member of Vetements, will certainly keep the brand youthful, although this could also signal that youth-obsession is moving from the runway into the atelier. Age, gender, SPEED: these were the big buzzwords in fashion 2015, how they will fare next year, we’ll soon find out.
Text by Ira Solomatina
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