Truth & New Beginnings: Andreas Kronthaler

To embark on this journey, you first need to make space. Clearing out what’s already there, re-purpose it and challenge yourself to create something unknown. The collection reuses leftover fabrics from former collections and from Kronthaler’s own personal wardrobe, which transforms every individual look into a character, much like from a theatre. 

Finding purpose in the old to create the new, a clear-out is not only for the physical space but also the mind – a philosophy Kronthaler has adapted for his new artistic era at Vivienne Westwood.

SLEEK caught up with the designer backstage at Paris Fashion Week to discuss ‘truth’ and new beginnings.

SLEEK: Our latest issue, discusses the idea of truth. How do you bring an element of truth into a collection?

Andreas Kronthaler: I always bring truth into it because I can’t do it any differently. I operate and work where I don’t think about anything. I only think about [the collection] itself, to tell you the truth. I don’t think “can I sell it?” or “who is going to wear it?” So, it comes from the inside and I just have to do it. Then it’s after it’s done that I might be trying to explain it. It’s an instinct. Instincts are something you can always rely on.

S: Instinct is honest.

AK: Yes, it’s honest. They guide you through the world, through life. I tried to be as instinctive with what I do, in my work, as much as I can.

S: And is it important to be back on the runway?

AK: I think so, because of the experience. You get the sense, the spirit, the feeling of it, which you can’t have without a show. I wasn’t even sure if we were going to do one until 4 weeks ago. Then once we decided – boom! we jumped right into it. After covid, you lose a bit of the routine so, it was hard work but I enjoyed every minute of it.

S: What were the inspirations behind the collection?

AK: A lot of things inspired it but the most important thing about it was that I wanted to make each look different. There was a very clear instruction that every piece had to be theatrical, to make it as rich as possible. But at the same time, I tried to bring lightness – call it ‘sexy,’ ‘cheeky,’ ‘sensual,’ whatever it may be.

Then there was everyone talking about the “new beginning” [since the pandemic]. What I did was, go into my drawers because, in order to do something new, you have to clear the space. You need to have room for the new. So, for the collection, I used a lot of personal fabric from the shelves that I’ve cherished for many years. Things that are 20 years old. Then I thought, “gone!” Because you have to empty it and put something new back in. It’s a combination of all of these elements that inspired me.

S: How has the past year influenced the way you think?

AK: You intensify the thoughts more. You have to think about things more seriously and let’s face it, fashion has a huge responsibility. Consumerism drives you to be buried in s***. You really think more about whether something is necessary or important. It’s something I did even before the pandemic but maybe more so now.

S: Do you think we’re on a path to change?

AK: I believe in change. The only thing is that we can’t see the future. But nothing can stay the same. Nothing. Even we don’t stay the same.