All images from Louis Vuitton
Yesterday Louis Vuitton finally revealed their long-awaited perfumes to the world. This release is perhaps the biggest thing to happen in fragrance in the past few years.
The luxury brand had not launched a scent since 1946, in a saturated industry worth an estimated $30 billion–a–year, they were one of the only fashion brands not jumping on that huge revenue stream. To add to the intrigue they put Jacques Cavallier Belletrud (the God of perfumers) under an exclusive contract and locked him away for four years to work on the fragrances. And finally, the whole thing was shrouded in a mist of secrecy until just last month when they revealed they were launching not one, but seven scents, talk about ‘go big, or go home’.
Beauty journalists and perfume geeks have been waiting with baited breath, and we can confirm: they are as good as we had hoped, if not better.
We dropped by the LV stores and tried them all: here is our bottle-by-bottle review.
ROSE DES VENTS
This is a green, fruity rose. It boasts refined raw materials exclusive to LV. Only Chanel and Guerlain use natural elements this fine, and it stands up against any scent from either of those leading perfume houses. The florals are grounded in a powdery iris and a warm pink pepper. If you like Stella by Stella McCartney – another creation of Cavalliers, then you will like this.
TURBULENCES
Tuberose is narcotic and sexy, but can also be cloying and skanky. True fans of the pungent bloom luxuriate in the dirty-knicker appeal, however Turbulences shows a lighter side to the white flower. This is not the strongest in the collection – Tuberose addicts might be better off sticking with Frederic Malle’s Carnal Flower, or Byredo’s Flowerhead – but it is a good introduction to the heady blossom for those who are interested.
DANS LA PEAU
This is the most polarizing of the line. The press release claims it is infused with actual leather from the LV workshops, the result is a highly animalic, moreish scent that is both compelling and replusing. It smells like the air in the country side, sort of ‘barn-yardy’. The powdery dry down suggests jasmine and iris – a common theme in all the line.
APOGÉE
Lily-of-the-valley is the central note in this perfume. There are also citrus fruits, pine and herbs present. It suggests lakes and forests. There is something fabulously ‘old-fashioned’ about this one, like some of the pieces in the Louis Vuitton boutique. It speaks to their monogrammed ladies who buy the classic accessories.
CONTRE MOI
This one is a dessert of a scent, albeit a rich French pudding you would eat with a double espresso. It’s got a strong vanilla core, but riffs on it on a clever way that confuses the senses.
MATIÉRE NOIRE
Arabic ouds have dominated the industry for the last few years. This is Louis Vuitton’s nod to the trend. Interestingly Cavallier has paired the rare leathery wood with poppy blackberry – and it works.
MILLE FEUX
If you like the smell of vintage makeup, you will like this. Iris plays a big part and this time is joined by raspberries. It’s a rich, warm floral blend, cosy – but still luxury. This is Cavallier’s love letter to florals.
Refill bottles for travel
Les Parfums Louis Vuitton are available now in Louis Vuitton Stores