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Food has never just been solely about nutrition—sure, it is a mean for survival but at the same time it has always carried a ceremonial connotation, and, increasingly, personal branding. In an age where consumption is curated and meaning is manufactured, what ends up on our plate speaks volumes before we take the first bite. Now, it’s about what we eat, where we eat it, and who’s sitting next to us. Food has fractured into cultural signals. While the turn towards conservatism promotes home-cooked meals from scratch, non-traditional dining formats like supper clubs have also experienced a rise in popularity. And yet, one question persists: Why are straight white men so obsessed with Asian cuisine?
The fixation isn’t new—white men in Japan, white men in Thailand. The so-called passport bros that travel abroad to find relationships they think they can’t obtain at home. There’s an assumption, rooted in racial and gendered dynamics, that whiteness in East Asia carries a sort of social currency—an increased “success rate” in dating. This idea, steeped in neo-colonial desire, has spilled over into the food world. In major cities, there’s been a visible rise in Asian-inspired restaurants owned and branded by non-Asian men.
Beetlejuice. Image Courtesy of Warner Bros. Pictures.
Is it cultural appropriation? It’s complicated. Many of these restaurants do employ Asian head chefs—think of Nobu, co-founded by Nobu Matsuhisa, but famously backed by Robert De Niro and others. Still, it’s hard to ignore that Asian culture is once again being used for the image it carries. The question becomes: when does admiration turn into aesthetic consumption? And why does value, yet again, seem to be determined by the straight white male gaze?
Historically, Chinese cuisine first entered the West in the 19th century with immigrants who came to work on railroads and in gold rush towns. These early restaurants served their own communities and were seen as strange, even suspicious, by the mainstream. By the mid-20th century, war and migration brought Vietnamese, Korean, and other Asian cuisines into the Western fold—but they remained categorized as cheap and ethnic. It wasn’t until Japanese cuisine, particularly sushi, entered fine dining spaces in the late 20th century that Asian food began to be viewed as luxurious.
Japanese food now dominates the global urban foodscape—ramen joints, izakayas, omakase spots. Its popularity parallels a cultural phenomenon: white men going to Tokyo. For many, the city becomes their own playground. It’s not just about loving Tokyo; it’s about how Tokyo makes them feel. A fantasy of precision, subcultures, and clean aesthetics—Tokyo becomes digestible, “different” but comfortable. Like the current White Lotus season, where Frank reminisces in Bangkok about his obsession with Asian women, only to admit he didn’t want to sleep with them—he wanted to be them. It’s the fetish wrapped inside another fetish.
White Lotus. Image Courtesy of HBO.
Take events like the Ramen Festival or restaurants like November in Berlin. Both of these example are enjoyable and make great food. But once the logo is polished and the name fits the template of trendiness, desire attaches itself. Often, at the helm is a straight white man orchestrating his vision of an “Asian-inspired” restaurant, hiring Asian chefs for authenticity—but still shaping the narrative from the top. It starts to feel like another power play.
I come from a Chinese household. I remember my lunchboxes being called smelly or having to answer what kinds of animals I consume or rather not consume. My parents own a Chinese restaurant. We hear complaints about our prices, even as the same guests drop double the amount at a Western-owned establishment with a minimalist interior and edgy logo. These newer restaurants often tell a story, but not the full one. The complexity, the labor, the lived culture—it’s often edited out. There’s a fine line between cultural celebration and cultural erasure—between when Asian cuisine is praised as trendy, and when it’s still dismissed as “ethnic” or “cheap.”
Can we blame white men entirely? Maybe not. But we have to talk about media’s role in shaping perception. The West has a long history of portraying Asian cultures as inherently submissive or mysterious. Asian women are exoticized, fetishized. Asian men are desexualized or erased. Hollywood has a track record of whitewashing—casting white actors in Asian roles, from Breakfast at Tiffany’s to Ghost in the Shell. Even Robert Downey Jr. wore yellowface in Sherlock Holmes—as recently as 2009.
Sherlock Holmes. Image Courtesy of Warner Bros. Pictures.
This casual cultural borrowing—without depth, context, or accountability—is not random. It’s a pattern. So no, enjoying Asian cuisine isn’t the problem. But when glamorization slides into fetishization, and when power determines which version of a culture gets celebrated—it matters.
It decides who gets to sit at the table, and who still has to serve it.
So the question isn’t whether white men can enjoy Asian cuisine—it’s whether they understand the power they hold in shaping its narrative. When a cuisine is only considered refined once it’s been filtered through a Western lens, or made Instagrammable by the right font and lighting, it reveals who still gets to define value. Culture isn’t just what’s served on the plate—it’s who’s allowed to cook it, who gets to profit from it, and whose story is heard in the process. When the full complexities of Asian identity, labor, migration, and resilience are cropped out of the picture, what remains is a fantasy. And if we only ever celebrate the surface—without the struggle, without the soul—we’re not honoring culture. We’re consuming it.