Portrait of William Fan, photography by DETLEF EDEN H&M TAEKO OMAE
In the atelier of William Fan the preparations for his Berlin Fashion Week show are in full swing. Two models are trying on the clothes from the Autumn 2016 collection and the designer chooses which looks will make it to the runway. However, the atmosphere is all but hectic. “To tell the truth, I’m already working on the next collection,” says Fan smiling. “Once I’m done with the work I can no longer think about it.”
The clothes he will present in Berlin on Thursday look festive with all the glittering sequins, golden buttons and heavy tassels. This time William Fan was, as he says, “in the mood for a party”. His idea was to create clothes that would look business-like at the front and more daring and revealing at the back. “The collection was inspired by disco and Bruce Lee”, says the designer as he ruffles the dress entirely embroidered with cream-coloured sequins. Did it take long to create it? “No, not really,” he answers.
William Fan, SS16
William Fan, SS16
It is the third season for Fan’s eponymous brand. In his androgynous-looking, minimalistic designs William Fan marries traditionally Asian motives with a contemporary practical approach. While the new collection presents a witty, playful take on disco chic, its designs are as streamlined, reserved and noble-looking as before. A new addition to William Fan’s offering are bags made with as few metal pieces as possible and produced with the Asian market in mind.
William Fan, SS16
Fan’s favourite outfit in the new collection is a black tassel-decorated skirt worn with a fluffy top made of black rayon. “These are clothes that should be seen in movement”, he says. And it only takes one glance at the model taking a stroll in a bell-bottomed dress to see why: following the movement of the body the cut and the fabrics stir into life giving a playful touch to the whole look.
We go out for a cafe and chat and the designer puts on a sleek and shimmering dark-blue jacket made by himself, naturally. “I always design for myself. You see, I am very practical. I make only the things I need and would like to wear”. We sit down at an old quiet cafe on the narrow Große Hamburger Str. With its heavy chandeliers and creaky chairs it looks like a charming scrap of the pre-second-world-war Berlin. “I do like this cafe, but I hate nostalgia,” he adds. “I love the idea of moving forward. In my work I can imagine going back only as far as the Sixties or the Seventies’.
Before he launched his own label he had a stint at Alexander McQueen. It was during the hardest time for the brand – one month after Fan arrived McQueen passed away and the orphaned house was in a state of frustration. “It was sad, but at the same time I was fascinated to see how a fashion house lives only as long as its designer”. And is there any designer he would like to work with? “I could imagine working with Jil Sander if she still designed, she has a very innovative point of view on womenswear”, he answers after a short hesitation. “But again – I founded my own brand to stop working for other people. I have my own and quite strong vision”.
William Fan, SS16, photography Alina Asmus
One of the chief influences for the long-haired designer is workwear: “Cuts are very modern, the designs are utilitarian and totally genderless. I’ve always looked quite androgynous myself and even used to shop at both women’s and men’s departments. I want to give the same freedom of choice to my customers. After all, this gender division is so outdated. Take a sneaker: everybody can wear it. That’s the type of product I want to make”. William Fan isn’t restricting himself to making clothes only, in future he wants to expand his label to a lifestyle brand – he has always been interested in sculpture, which can be similar to designing objects.
Alongside his interest in androgyny Fan is probably most beguiled by details. His clothes, meticulously cut and precisely sewn are the ones one would want to explore – with all the hidden pockets and tiny details in fine fabrics. “I guess, I work for those who can appreciate all that – the secret pockets made for practical reasons, the combination of fabrics… I work for those who are interested in comfort and yet are searching for something new”.
William Fan, SS16
As William sips his herbal tea, he radiates calm confidence. With the second collection under way he has already caught the eye of the media and international clients. Before we say our goodbyes he answers to our last question: When did you know you wanted to become a designer? “Always”, he smiles. “I always knew I would become a fashion designer. It’s a childhood dream.”
Text by Ira Solomatina
William Fan presents his AW16/17 collection at Mercedes Benz Berlin Fashion Week 21 January 2016
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