Courtesy of Max Mara
Berlin fashion often revolves around the dark techno style of its many thumping dance floors, but beyond its youth culture, it also has real culture. Aside from being a major political capital of Europe, its museums and galleries are world class and its history, though dark at times, is storied. Although Max Mara head designer Ian Griffiths admits his love affair with the city started during his clubbing days in the ‘80s at Manchester University, the Resort 2020 collection he showed at Berlin’s Neues Museum bears the hallmarks of Berlin’s reputation as a grand capital city — more Cabaret (1966) than Victoria (2015).
The collection was dominated by a severe elegance, reminiscent of Griffiths’ Berlin idols, Marlene Dietrich and David Bowie. The lines were long, stretching from high turtlenecks down to wide legged trousers and ankle-length coats that allowed for mystery. Monochromatic looks in neutral shades and bold scarlet made for a striking contrast against the neoclassical architecture and icy marble staircase of the antiquities museum, which houses the bust of Nefertiti.
Ute Lemper perfroming at Clärchens Ballhaus. Courtesy of Max Mara
German cabaret chanteuse Ute Lemper was definitely channelling Dietrich as she took to the runway in a suit variation of the white “Berlin coat,” which features floral details on the shoulder and mimics the designs of Germany’s legendary Meissen porcelain. For the after party at an old Berlin ballroom, the singer upped the ante as she performed Dietrich tunes in a cream satin gown transporting everyone back to the nightlife of 1920s.
While many designers cite Berlin as the source of their inspiration, turning its clubwear into luxury apparel and even choosing the “poor but sexy” capital as a studio location, few use the capital as a place to show off their creations. In terms of press and buyers, it is difficult to beat the neighbouring fashion weeks of London and Paris, but it is still nice to see the vision in its proper context for a change.
Checkout the looks from the collection below:
Courtesy of Max Mara