Runway Roundup: Best of Copenhagen SS24

Another Fashion Week is coming to an end.

With shows over shows happening every day, take a look at SLEEK’s runway roundup.

PAOLINA RUSSO

The rise of Paolina Russo: since her CSM grad show, the designer’s colorful creations have garnered much, very deserved, media attention. Her unique approach emphasizing handcraft and sustainability has followed the growth of the label. As the winner of the Zalando Visionary Award, Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard’s first runway collection titled ‘Monolithic’ was presented at Copenhagen Fashion Week. Textile experimentation combined with innovative silhouettes allowed the brand to explore a new side of their design language, and stake their place in fashion week, where they will, fingers-crossed, continue to have the opportunity to reign.

VAIN

No matter which industry one is part of, the difficult task of being a creative in the digital age presents many speed bumps. VAIN’s SS24 collection, ‘Social Avoidance’, comments on the turbulence, and abundance of not-so-good news that crowds social media and our minds. An attempt at peace through all of the noise was the essence behind the looks, which featured zippers, playing with the idea of being constricted. Panic and anxiety come to a tasteful fruition through the thick leather coats and treated denim, challenging audiences be a bit less ‘”vain” and get outside of their own minds, where one often retreats when faced with worldly troubles.

GANNI

Striving for the height of sophistication, Ganni, one of the most highly anticipated shows of CPHFW, wasn’t afraid to play. Mixing rustic ruffles and knits with strapy cheetah looks, the show captured the fearlessness of a foray into new spaces. Incorporating AI technology to communicate with their following, the brand expands their universe; a collaboration with New Balance was also revealed during the show, looking back at styles from the early 2000s. The use of innovative fabrics to combat waste and CO2 emissions made for a unique tactility among the collection.

WOOD WOOD

Maybe it is the precipice of the changing seasons, but it seems that a desire for reflection is in the air. Holding true to dreams and friends while looking toward the inevitable future, WOOD WOOD’s SS24 collection, ‘Solid Air’ abstracts well known silhouettes, translating them through a variety of fabrics and mostly-neutral color palette. The dynamic styling of the garments added to the lightness captured by the show, referencing the longing for, and elusiveness of summer.

P.L.N.

The third and final piece of P.L.N.’s NEWTALENT trilogy, Collection III comments on abstract notions of individuality and reality. The industry has been forced to look at constructions of perceived beauty through the looks. Designer Peter Lundvald Nielsen is not letting viewers off easy, allowing them to do something they are not often given the chance to: define what they are seeing for themselves. In an attempt to obey his wishes, there won’t be too much of an expansion on why he used which fabric, etc. Take this valuable moment to be overwhelmed, allowing the polarities of the collection to inform an opinion.

KERNEMILK 

Defining the label’s intentions for the future, Kernemilk explores their dark side. Looking at the way in which nature causes confrontation with the harsh aspects of our reality, the SS24 collection speaks of mortality and melancholy. To juxtapose the concept, bright colors and plenty of glitter were delectably integrated into the pieces, echoing the Y2k narrative previously built by the brand. Merging dynamic shapes with elastic fabrics and watercolor-esque patterns, the pieces reflect the vision of the label, their journey, and where they are asserting themselves in the industry today.

NICKLAS SKOVGAARD

The expressive volumes of Nicklas Skovgaard’s creations make it hard to look away from the flea-market mannequins wearing the looks as if they were torn from the pages of an old fashion magazine. Revealed in a performance by Britt Liberg, the only real model present, the movement of the pieces, and ways in which they could be subverted brought the garments to life, putting them in a new context. The use of handwoven fabrics placed alongside intricate draping created an irresistible tension filled with taffeta.

A. ROEGE HOVE

There is something so delicate about A. ROEGE HOVE’s distinct knitwear pieces; exuding craftsmanship, the transparent garments seem as if they’d feel like summer on your skin. A sophisticated sensuality is captured by the brand’s SS24 collection, who’s soft hues add to the gentle beauty of the looks, ranging from tightly fitted dresses to glimmering skirts. A collaboration with the iconic house Georg Jensen also explores how knitting can be incorporated into jewellery design, accompanying the poetry created by the garments.

REMAIN

Contemporary silhouettes paraded strongly down the runway at REMAIN‘s SS24 show. With a focus on craftsmanship, simplicity, and heritage, the detailing put into each piece is highlighted. Reworking the men’s suit, fine tailoring is maintained while imagination takes hold to subvert a known construction. The proportions of the pieces add something understated yet extremely desirable and fresh to fashion “staples”. The highest quality fabrics from fine leathers to suede gave structure to the looks.

STINE GOYA

Copenhagen is Stine Goya’s city, the brand’s home; their SS24 runway captures what this signifies to them. Through elegantly draped slips accompanied by intricate prints (inspired by local flowers of course) the designer’s love for the city shines. The sense of comfort such a place lends and the appreciation for the people that make home home are captured by the symbology embedded in the garments. The models walked around a community dinner table, representing the street parties that the city is known for hosting. Collaborating with the locals to bring their vision to fruition, Stine Goya highlights the undeniable connection between fashion and community.