Image Courtesy of Dior.
DIOR
Die Dior Winter 2024-2025 Men’s Collection, conceived by Creative Director Kim Jones, pays homage to ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev, blending utility and opulence in a juxtaposition of Haute Couture and Prêt-à-porter. Inspired by Nureyev’s parallel lives, the precision and excellence of the collection showcase reinterpreted archival pieces, including Yves Saint Laurent’s creations. Clean lines reminiscent of the 60s and 70s coalesce with nods to Nureyev’s active dancer style, featuring jumpsuits, wool shorts, ribbed ensembles, and supple leather. The extravagant stage presence of Nureyev is mirrored in kimono-inspired pieces with traditional Japanese craftsmanship. Accessories, from dance-inspired shoes to utility bags and luxurious headwear, reflect the simplicity, discipline, and extravagance of both worlds – The whole collection is dedicated in memory of Jones’ late father Michael, and his brother Colin, a ballet dancer turned photographer who often portrayed Nureyev.
Image Courtesy of Valentino.
VALENTINO
Valentino‘s ‘Le Ciel’ Menswear Fall/Winter 2024-25 collection, directed by Pierpaolo Piccioli, delves into the evolving concept of contemporary masculinities. The exploration revolves around the redefinition of the color blue, traditionally associated with masculinity, which is liberated from societal norms and reconfigured to reflect the transformed perception of modern men. The collection challenges traditional masculine wardrobe norms, emphasizing softness, fluidity, and vulnerability as strengths. Through a celebration of craftsmanship and the integration of mythological figures into intarsia designs, the garments embody timeless human values and ideals. The clothes, drawn from the timeless male wardrobe, signify a fundamental shift in the meaning of masculinity, reflecting the altered nature of men in our changed world.
Image Courtesy of Loewe.
LOEWE
Jonathan Anderson‘s Fall Men’s Loewe show offered a vibrant exploration of contemporary consciousness, blending playfulness with philosophical complexity. Collaborating with artist Richard Hawkins, the collection showcased layered paintings drawn from pop culture, art, and porn. The presentation addressed the impact of social media on masculinity, challenging norms through reinterpretation and trickery. The parade of boys donned Anderson’s signature luxurious leather, shearling, and suede, along with crafty knits and art pieces. The styling featured suggestive details like unbuckled half-belts and fused garments, exuding a touch of neo-grunge with a camera-ready street-style vibe. The soundtrack incorporated bursts of interviews and a Western movie score, exploring themes of heroes, bad boys, and the globalized nature of the internet era.
Image Courtesy of Doublet.
DOUBLET
Masayuki Ino’s Doublet showcased its Fall/Winter 2024 collection at Paris Fashion Week, injecting dark humor into the runway with whimsical designs reflecting daily life events. Closing the event at Galerie Brugier-Rigail, the Japanese label created an immersive experience, offering street food and gifting savory condiments. Titled “THE CURE,” the collection initially embraced a somber tone, featuring models with whitened eyes, blood-spattered looks, integrated monster masks and discolored veins. The runway transitioned to a relaxed atmosphere with in-flight essentials, including neck pillows and “HEAL TECH” tees. Doublet’s playful identity shone through in handbags, featuring squished “Power Protein” bags. The show unveiled an unexpected but exciting ASICS collaboration, blending beige constructions with asymmetrical contrasting underlays.
Image Courtesy of Acne Studios.
ACNE STUDIOS
Acne Studios pays homage to denim culture in a rebellious, sexy, and cool collection, portraying a modern cyber biker aesthetic with a kitschy twist. Menswear motorbike archetypes are subverted, blending neons with classic biker and grunge elements, along with psychedelic prints inspired by rave and club culture. Jonny Johansson, Creative Director, describes denim as inherently provocative and rugged. American musician Yves Tumor, known for pushing boundaries in contemporary music, art, and culture, was chosen as the face of the collection. Yves Tumor’s dynamic and versatile persona aligns perfectly with the spirit of the collection, reflecting a true rebel with a fearless and impeccable sense of style.
Image Courtesy of Dries Van Noten.
DRIES VAN NOTEN
The elegance of the unexpected: Dries Van Noten‘s Autumn Winter 2024-2025 menswear collection explores contrasts by blending refined and rustic elements. The lean silhouette combines long coats with relaxed shapes in cargo trousers and oversized knitwear, challenging conventional garment norms. Creative details include zipped and tied sweaters, glove-like shoes, and twisted shirts. The collection showcases craftsmanship through the fusion of heritage fabrics and contemporary tailoring, unveiling a fresh take on the British waxed jacket and a denim narrative. Muted prints, overdyed fabrics, and a sophisticated color palette contribute to the refined and nuanced aesthetic, while safety pin jewelry and sock shoes add subtle touches of elegance to this exploration of contemporary menswear.
Image Courtesy of Sankuanz.
SANKUANZ
In its Autumn/Winter 2024 collection, Sankuanz embarks on a nostalgic journey, revisiting the revered Kangrinboqê, a sacred mountain significant in Buddhism and the brand’s inaugural collection inspiration. This latest chapter seamlessly fuses classicism and modernity, blending luxury and streetwear while intertwining Eastern imagery and Western representations. Collaborating with ENCOR Studio, the collection introduces a reinterpretation of Kangrinboqê through an ethereal light installation. Rooted in ethnic diversity, the collection pays homage to traditional Chinese attire with loose silhouettes embracing Han and Tibetan styles. Traditional Tibetan robe draping takes center stage, redefining Eastern essence with a modern touch. The palette draws from nature’s hues, reflecting reverence for the environment. Iconic daggers ornament zippers and boots, symbolizing spiritual connections. The collection features artworks by tattoo artist Miki Kim, showcasing the ‘Human Orchid Mantis’ series. A capsule collection inspired by Sankuanz’s signature sneaker “Bumpy” expresses the unbridled spirit of youth with graffiti prints and a disruptive aesthetic.
Image Courtesy of Wooyoungmi.
WOOYOUNGMI
Wooyoungmi‘s Fall-Winter 2024 collection offers a contemporary portrayal of Seoul, drawing inspiration from the 19th-century account of Alexander Williams and the global influence of K-Culture. Madame Woo captures the city’s essence by blending South Korean and European wardrobe traditions, envisioning everyday strolls through Seoul’s streets. The collection pays homage to diverse inhabitants, incorporating elements like Bojagi knot-tying and South Korean family coats of arms. The palette reflects the city’s greys and autumnal hues, illuminated by a chaotic city print. Jewelry shaped like ears symbolizes wisdom, and the soundtrack merges jazz with traditional South Korean gugak drums, capturing the vibrant busking culture of Seoul.
Image Courtesy of Magliano.
MAGLIANO
Magliano returns to Pitti in a cinematic homage, recalling the brand’s initial expressions in Florence five years ago. The collection unfolds at the base of a monumental staircase, exploring the concept of the classic, reinterpreting feminine forms, introducing unisex skirts, and challenging historical binaries. Neapolitan-shaped suits hand-sewn by Kiton embody Italy’s radical savoir-faire. Borsalino extremities showcase a joyous sabotage of development processes. The color palette is somber with fiery highlights, featuring literal candles as military ranks. Jackets and sweaters compete for elegance, with dramatic details and nods to poetess Patrizia Cavalli. Safety footwear and UGG slippers undergo Magliano’s unique treatment, blending formal and messy elements accompanied by Oxhy’s captivating music. Nostalgia, akin to Tarkovsky’s Nostalghia, serves as a driving force, urging radical choices in this kermesse of style and sound.
Image Courtesy of Jordanluca.
JORDANLUCA
Italian tailoring meets subcultures and British punk: The celebration-themed runway for the Jordanluca FW24 show is accompanied by a techno soundtrack and is set in an industrial location. In the beginning, balloons featuring Dominic Myatt’s artworks build the introduction to the show. Symbolizing nostalgia, these balloons convey the end of the party but retain a sense of hope. The show starts with impeccable tailored silhouettes, infused with bold details like spiky cufflinks and backless trousers. As the presentation progresses, the focus shifts to rave staple looks, creating a rough, edgy vibe. Despite the dark elements, the overall mood is celebratory, inviting the audience to embrace the present with a collection that pays homage to outcasts and vulnerability, bridging the cultural essence of London and Milan.