Courtesy of Urban Culture Auction.
Karl Lagerfeld’s six-decade reign in the fashion world may have come to an end when he passed away in February, but since his death his craftsmanship and attention to detail continue to live on in the artefacts he has left behind. A collection of 125 sketches go up for auction in Florida, don’t focus on the iconic pieces Lagerfeld designed for Chanel, Fendi, Chloé, Blamain, or even Patou — instead it offers insight into the design methods of a young Lagerfeld, during his time at House of Tiziani in Rome. A private owner has kept them safe for the past half-century, but their existence is a bit of a miracle.
“They are very rare and might not have survived had they remained in Lagerfeld’s possession,” Rico Baca, co-owner of Urban Culture Auction points out in a statement. Although the German designer’s intricate and stylised drawings allude to a meticulous character, Lagerfeld himself may not have treasured his own sketches in the way that the art world embraces them today. He famously told the New Yorker, “The most important piece of furniture in a house is the garbage can! I keep no archives of my own, no sketches, no photos, no clothes—nothing!”
Courtesy of Urban Culture Auction.
The sketches themselves, which are valued as high as $3,000, convey the pristine and highly personal touch that Lagerfeld brought to each design. Many pieces are hand-coloured and feature original fabric swatches – a practice the designer carried with him to different houses. A nostalgic record of the innovations in ’60s fashion design, the Tiziani drawings encapsulate the playful cultural influences of the decade while setting the precedent for a more ambitious and daring take on women’s fashion to come.
Pucci-esque bights and A-line cuts firmly place the collection in its time, but the pieces also hint at the influences that Lagerfeld would continue to channel throughout his career. The drop waists and exaggerated evening gown belts mirror the aesthetic of Chanel 2017’s haute couture collection. Transparent garments reappeared in the form of Fendi’s SS19 coats, and a stunning custom piece for Elizabeth Taylor presents a timeless elegance that would come to define Lagerfeld’s work. As Bill Hamilton, who previously designed for Carolina Herrera, observed, “They are more like works of art. I don’t think [designers] put that much effort into the sketches of today.”
Lagerfeld was the last of a dying breed. He carried immaculate presentation throughout his life and career – known for his air of composure, white ponytail, suit jacket, sunglasses and leather gloves, just as much as for his over-the-top runway shows on the Trevi Fountain in Rome or in the Paris’ Grand Palais.
The sale will take place both in-house and remotely on Thursday, April 18, 2019 at 12:00 noon US Eastern time. Check out some of the lots below:
Courtesy of Urban Culture Auction.