Photography by Lior Neumeister.
In Berlin everything is loud – the music, the streets, the people – and now, local fashion brands are also beginning to raise their voices. The brand Namilia, a fusion of the first names of its two founders, Nan Li and Emilia Pfohl, has emerged as a flagship of the Berlin scene. Namilia was born during their university years with the intention of conveying a story, as Nan Li shares during our call from Mexico, where the heat of Berlin’s fleeting summer presumably reigns all year.
In the seemingly never-ending winter months, with hard techno sounds echoing through the cold concrete walls, darkness envelops the capital. Yet Namilia has always been a product of this environment, especially the nightlife and the queer community. Nan Li speaks passionately about his fascination with local underground movements and the power of imbuing garments with a societal or political message. When you wear a piece by Namilia, you carry the brand’s spirit on your body – often in the form of images of penises and vulvas. Since the beginning of their careers, Li and Pfohl have incorporated genitalia into their designs, as seen with the ‘Dick Bags’ and ‘Dickinies’. Li reflects on the brand’s beginnings: ‘Eight years ago, depicting genitalia was not as normalised as it is today. We wanted to play with concepts of masculinity and power.’ These charged symbols became part of the brand identity, and the duo experimented with this imagery in order to destigmatise it.
Over the years, Namilia has matured, and it has shaken off its image as a mere Berlin techno brand. Visit Namilia’s Instagram today and you will find numerous international celebrities wearing the brand. Li describes Namilia from two perspectives: it is a staple on the dance floors, where it transforms into a type of sexy workwear that requires triple stitching to survive 24 hours at a party. At the same time, these items of clothing reflect a closeness to pop culture. When celebrities wear Namilia, Nan Li feels like they have come full circle, as some designs were inspired by these very individuals.
Photography by Lior Neumeister.
Last year, Namilia collaborated with Khy, Kylie Jenner’s clothing line. This drew much criticism, but Li remains unfazed – for him as a designer, it is always exciting to try new things and create a new, unexpected context. ‘The Kardashians have influenced an entire decade with their aesthetics and body representation. You may have an opinion on them, but their societal impact is undeniable,’ he explains. Since then, more eyes have been following the Berlin brand’s creations.
Their underground origins are now fast approaching the mainstream. Yet for Li, the term ‘mainstream’ is not necessarily negative; on the contrary, he is pleased that their message now reaches a larger audience.
Our conversation shows that Namilia prioritises its community. Their fashion shows address topics like catcalling, but in typical Namilia fashion, Li wants to approach these issues with a sense of irony and humour rather than with stern finger-wagging. In this sense, he sees the recent shift towards the mainstream as a positive development.
While many Berlin brands flee to Paris as soon as they have made it in order to seek more recognition and international acclaim, this duo continues to chart their own path and remains loyal to the German capital. Li expresses confidence. ‘Berlin is loved for its cultural and music scene; perhaps one day, the city will also be known for producing new fashion brands.’ Namilia is already paving the way for this journey.
Photography by Lior Neumeister.
Credits
Photography: Lior Neumeister.
As featured in SLEEK 81 – REALITY. Available in print and digital here.