Photography by David Göttler.
“Befriending fear and rejecting shortcuts.” It sounds wrong, almost uncomfortable. The kind of line you’d hear in an Instagram reel, nod politely at, and scroll past without a second thought.
But for David Göttler, it’s not a slogan. It’s the philosophy that drives him to the top of the world’s deadliest mountains without a breath of supplemental oxygen.
We are living in a world obsessed with life hacks and optimization, where everyone feels the need to make their lives easier. David Göttler goes against this mainstream. He intentionally chooses the harder, more complex path. The German alpinist has stood atop more than thirty of Earth’s most merciless peaks, each expedition a test of human endurance at altitudes where the air is too thin to sustain thought. But how does he do it and most importantly why?
Photography by David Göttler.
Consider Nanga Parbat, Pakistan’s ninth-highest and most treacherous mountain. The peak, known as the “Killer Mountain,” has claimed the lives of dozens of climbers and Göttler being almost one of them. Over the past five years he has attempted to climb the mountain five times. Five times he turned back, defeated by weather, conditions, or the mountain’s sheer refusal to be climbed. However, he never gave up. While most people would probably consider the missed trials a failure, he called them an education.
On his fifth attempt, when he finally reached the summit and collapsed to his knees in exhaustion and relief, the moment wasn’t about conquest. It was about completion. He finally checked off the boxes that had taught him more about patience and persistence than any success ever could. It almost felt as if he had to prove to the mountain that he belonged, to be allowed to pass.
We met with him to talk about his expeditions and what they taught him. When we asked about fear, he didn’t give the usual athlete’s answer about pushing through. Instead, he describes fear as a companion, even a friend. Fear, in his philosophy, is information. It sharpens the senses. His way of looking at a negatively associated word gives it a completely new transformation. Fear stops being the enemy and becomes the most valuable tool in his kit — more important than ice axes or crampons.
Photography by David Göttler.
Another aspect of his philosophy is his belief in “climbing blank.” What does this mean, you might ask yourself? Göttler refuses to use supplemental oxygen on high-altitude climbs. Just for reference: for most mountaineers, everywhere above 7,000 meters it’s standard equipment to use bottled oxygen. But as we talked with him about his process of becoming the adrenaline junkie he is today, it’s clear he is anything but standard. For him, oxygen is a cheat code he can’t commit to.
“Oxygen doesn’t help you climb the mountain as it is — it lowers the mountain to where you are. It erases the difficulty that gives the achievement meaning.” - David Göttler.
In order to achieve this level of dedication for a journey such as Nanga Parbat, there is one more step that most people overlook or don’t give enough priority to: preparation. For the equipment aspect, he relies on The North Face Summit Series Advanced Mountain Kit — a system specifically engineered for fast, high-altitude alpine objectives. The kit’s innovative materials and modular layering concept allow him to adapt quickly to volatile conditions while maintaining maximum warmth, breathability and mobility. Its ultralight yet highly durable construction ensures that every gram he carries meaningfully contributes to safety and performance
And his preparation is surgical in its precision, as he builds his expeditions on three foundations: physical conditioning, equipment mastery, and mental strength.
For the first two pillars, the concept is “easy.” They are measurable — training hours, VO2 max, gear weight down to the gram. However, the third pillar is both invisible and indispensable. To build the necessary foundation, he works with mental coaches, as he understands it’s the most critical component and shouldn’t be overshadowed. At 8,000 meters, where oxygen deprivation slows thought and exhaustion clouds judgment, the quality of your mental preparation is the difference between life and death. Therefore, he treats psychological training with the same rigor that other athletes reserve for physical conditioning.
Photography by David Göttler.
In our era, we feel instant gratification for doing the bare minimum. David Göttler’s approach feels almost subversive. He returns to mountains that rejected him. He refuses technologies that would make his work easier. He befriends discomfort and makes patience a practice. And in doing so, he offers something the modern world desperately needs: a model of achievement that isn’t about metrics, but about depth. In our opinion, he becomes a role model to everyone who disbelieves in the value of taking the long road. And he also proves that sometimes you just have to challenge yourself for no reason other than the fact that some things are worth doing. And that, perhaps, is the only summit that truly matters.